The Breitling Watch Source Forums

Second hand freak - probably seriously second hand. Urwerk - I fear way too expensive (think 6 figures) but yes, very nice. The Corum bridge intrigues me and I know where I can see one, will have to take a look.

Panerai, really - even if you didn't know from previous threads that I hate Panerai it's hardly 'out there' design wise and isn't exactly a solution to too many dark dials - sorry. Haven't looked too much at FP Journe, will have to take a look.

Richard Mille's an interesting thought - hadn't considered that.

Anyone know what BRM uses - generic movements right?

Hmmmm, been a while since I checked the prices of the the Freak actually, and yes it's a bit out of your stated price range there Roff! Cheapest I found was the older and smaller (42mm) version at a shade under £29K GBP! Maybe not then.....

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Saw a few Urwerks on the TZ showcase in the usd$40K range, thats 5 figures if I'm counting right. Not impossible to expect a second hand to fall into the 20K range.

God, this must be fun shopping for a watch like this.

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Really - Urwerks that cheap!

I know an Urwerk dealer too - guess I need to look at those......

I'm also looking for any lower end suggestions - I don't have to spend $20,000 if there's a $2,000 watch that fits the bill

totally out there: Alain Silberstein

simple and special but nice: http://www.jaquet-droz.com/ (I like the La-Chaux-de-Fonds-1738 esspecially)

or a Vianney Halter - Antiqua

Whenever I read an interview with Alain Silberstein I think that he's a guy that I would love to meet - he seems like a really interesting guy to have a drink with. The watches leave me cold though - and he's happy with that (well he doesn't care about me specifically, but he has said that he doesn't want everyone to like his watches). I find them slightly 'comical' - not in the Corum bubble league, but not really me. They definitely qualify as unique though!

Vianney Halter is a very interesting idea - the Antiqua is flat out weird, but I do like it - I'm not sure that I am going to find one in my price criteria though - that thing lists for around $95,000 if I remember correctly. I fear Jacquet Droz may also be out of my price range, though used may be closer. It wasn't initially what I had in mind as a niche watch, but they are 'elegantly unique' - dressier than I was thinking, but definitely another possibility.

Someone will have to help me out with the brand, but how about that watch that has the two vertical registers,
one for hours and one for minutes. The numbers are arranged in a oval pattern surrounding the "slots" for the indicators.

I thought it was a Carlos ______ or something like that. Really cool looking.

Or how about one of those chain drive DeWitts?

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I'd really like someone to tell me what is so special about Richard Mille. Extremely expensive watches, but cutting edge design? No. Rich in history and innovative? No. Expensive? Yes.

Obviously it boils down to personal opinion, but if you spend $40k or more for a watch - of course it's going to be an "exclusive" club that owns them, but I'd rather have a timepiece that has a rich history and has a unique design and is a model that other watchmakers try to emulate vs. just owning an expensive piece of jewelry.

I'll admit that the Uwerk models are intriguing and will spark anyone's curiosity, but at least they have a futuristic design that is unlike any other watch - but having seen Richard Mille's up close and personal, I still fail to see what the intrigue is.

Admittedly, while I do love the style, the practicality, the flexibility, the features, etc., my recommendation of checking out the Panerais has more to do with the criteria outlined by the OP vs. a personal motive.

I'd disagree that Richard Mille aren't innovative or cutting edge. In fact I'd say that their use of modern technology and materials is pretty much unparalleled at the moment in my opinion. The only thing they don't currently have is a long and rich history, but in all other respects they have everything I'd personally look for in an expensive watch (except perhaps the price!).

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Jacquet Droz have the 'racetrack' dial layout, but there is another brand as well - much more affordable - I have the details at home, but can't recall off hand.

I agree that Richard Mille is innovatove - I do like them, but do have concerns about value for money.

I do have a personal bias against Paneraii - I just don't like them, my biggest bugbear being the font they use for the numbers, but I confess that I really don't see how they meet my criteria.

Carlo Ferrara - it came to me.

OK I know you would never buy one, BUT to be fair to the people who suggest Panerai, with the exception of 99.9% of them having dark dials, I think they do fit your criteria provided you were to go for a Manifattura model - very wearable, not stupidly expensive, and the fully in-house Manifattura movements are actually pretty innovative and distinctive. BUT we know that you just don't like them, so I guess that's always going to be the over-riding factor!

Anyway, back to the NON-PANERAI options , have you thought about Roger Dubuis? I've got quite a soft spot for the Easy Diver SAW ranges (both new and older variants). They also do some nice limited edition manual wind chronograph versions too. All have a nice DB as well - like this one......

http://www.chrono24.com/en/search/index ... esults=136

(I actually very nearly bought this myself a couple of months ago!)

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Driver8

Site Moderator

That would look better if the bezel were aligned

Hadn't really considered Roger Dubuis too seriously, but that has me thinking - nice tip (and a nice watch at a decent price).

I'll give you the Manifattura arm of Panerai, I guess I just don't see the unique styling in the way that I am looking for unique - if that makes any sense.

Suggestions (some serious, some not) under $20,000 for your consideration Roff.

First, a new model from one of the oldest houses, the Breguet Classique Ref. 5967. This is the first to use the new "Art Deco Damier" guilloche machine engraving pattern. Inside the 41mm wide case is a pocket watch movement, a Frédéric Piguet caliber 506.2. Possibly too conservative for this discussion but a very reasonable $16,400 in yellow gold.




Next, the complete opposite - the Angular Momentum Dive-Tec/500. Unique design and unbelievable lume for just $7,500. Only problem is it probably has a bog standard ETA movement since the only mention of movement says "Swiss made".




Continuing with dive watches, how about a U-Boat U-1942, complete with periscope! Only 64.4mm (including periscope). Unitas 6497 and "over $5000".




One more diver, the Blancpain 500 Fathoms. 48mm titanium case housing a Calibre 1315 movement. Full face lume and around $15,000.




This Gérald Genta Mickey Mouse will be hard to find as it's a limited edition of just 50 made last year to commemorate the first Singapore F1 Grand Prix. Price new was around $14,000.



If not MM, how about another GG? The Gérald Genta Arena Chrono Quattro Retro is around $25,000 new but Chrono24 have one for $14,000.




Finally, at $95,000 when new, Vianney Halter's Antiqua is way over budget but second hand values drop like a stone so who knows? Certainly fits the "unique" label!




Happy hunting!

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The Antiqua is the standout for me - and the first one to be recommended twice.

If I could find one for under $20K then it might well be a done deal. There was at least one example available last year from (I think) an Asian seller, but no idea on price.

I hadn't seen that Breguet - I like the guilloche, but I think that the Maxi Marine will be my first Breguet - and not this time.

The U-Boat and the Blancpain give me the dark dial problem again, although I keep coming back to U-Boat so one of those might appear at some point.

I've never really given GG much of a look, maybe I should - the Mickey isn't really me, but the other one is quite nice.

In terms of the Angular Momentum, that one's completely new to me, and I have to say that I don't hate it! I'm not sure that I could carry it off, and if I went for a standard movement then I would likely go for a Graham, but definitely a brand to look into a little more.

Thanks Sharky!!!!