The Breitling Watch Source Forums

Hmmmmmmm, well I can GUARANTEE that this is going to polarise opinions like no other watch!

And as it's a Breitling forum (and this new watch of mine is essential the antithesis of what a Breitling is), I'm thoroughly expecting the "haters" to outweigh the "lovers" by some margin.

So what is it?????
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
well.....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
It's a Doxa SUB 5000T Seaconqueror!



Yep, it's the horological equivalent of Marmite - you either love them, or you hate them!

Over the last 9 months or so I've really got into the concept of "re-imaginings" of classic watches. For example, my IWC Big Pilot is a modern take on the classic pilot's watch from the 1940's. So recently I've been looking for something new that I can wear pretty much everyday and not worry about. Not a "beater" as such but something I can just put on and forget about...... which is NOT something I tend to do with my Big Pilot! In short, I was after something hardy so a dive watch fitted the bill very nicely. For a little while I was seriously considering a Seawolf, but then I remembered Doxa. I first came across the brand a year or so ago and didn't look into them too much, but after a bit more research recently I became pretty smitten by the design, which is essentially unchanged since the late 60's.

Most Doxas are very "tool watch" in their appearance, which either black, white or orange hands, and painted hour markers, and I wasn't sure if I wanted something quite that "tool", especially considering my Breitling collection! But then I found the SUB 5000T..... and all that changed.

Basically, the SUB 5000T is the most modern watch (in terms of technical ability) that Doxa have ever made, while still retaining that cool late 60's (i.e. Sean Connery era Bond) look. It's 45mm in diameter, water resistant to 5000 feet (1524m), has a helium release valve, and has the very latest Doxa bracelet design which is kind of a cross between a Breitling in terms of the body of the bracelet (i.e. all the parts of the links are separate and screwed together) and an Omega Seamaster in terms of the clasp (i.e. push-button release) but with the added bonus of a very elegant and very clever ratchet system for the diver's extension section. It's also interesting that the bracelet is screwed to the case through the lugs like a Panerai. This watch is very toughly built.



So it's a decent size (45mm across and 15mm high)...... and it's a heavy piece too. 219g on the bracelet. 3mm thick AR coated sapphire crystal completes the package. The crystal is also slightly domed for that vintage feel as well.

However for all it's vintage appeal, a lot of Doxa-philes dislike a number of things about it. Firstly the centred words on the dial goes against the vintage look of most Doxas. Secondly, the SUB 5000T uses welded polished steel hour markers and polished hands which a lot of Doxa fans say make it look to bling! (Obviously those guys don't own Breitlings! ) However, for me it looks superb. Just the right mix of retro, "tool", and shininess. In terms of the shiny bits, it's kind of like a Steelfish in as much as most of it is brushed, but a few of the vertical surfaces are brushed. 2 out of the 5 bars of the bracelet are also polished, while the other 3 are brushed. Again, just the right mix IMHO. The bracelet and case are both of really super quality - a little more tool than most Breitlings, but then that's kind of the idea.

Another thing about this watch is the lume. It's fantastic, and probably not far off Omega standard. Apparently part of the reason they used applied metal hour markers is to provide a "well" for the lume material so they could apply more. And it works..... superbly.

In terms of movement it's running the ETA 2892-A2 which is probably the finest non-complication ETA movement out there. Doxa decorate it, but don't appear to modify it, but then when you read a few reviews about the 2892 you can understand why - http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta2892.html On the second page of this review, the guy goes on to say that while the Rolex 3035 and 3135 match it toe to toe, no movement he has come across can exceed it for reliability or accuracy. High praise from a watchmaker........... and something that I hope will turn out to be true!!

OK, so I freely admit that my real passion these days is for in-house movements and that isn't going to change for my "big ticket" timepieces, but for what this watch is (and for what I paid for it!), and for what I'll use it for (i.e. just throw it on and forget about it), I am more than happy to have this little ETA based engine on my wrist.

So there it is. A little different and certainly not for everyone, but for those of you who've never seen a Doxa before, hopefully this has been interesting.

Here's a few more of my characteristically poor photos for your "enjoyment"!

_________________
Driver8

Site Moderator

Well, I certainly don't know much about Doxa's, but I for one really like it. I love the markers, and I really like how the case extends out beyond the bezel. Very different looking.

I've seen other watches that have the helium release valve, but I don't understand the function of it, nor how it works. Any insight?

And congrats on the new acquisition!

_________________
Breitling Colt GMT
Breitling Navitimer World
IWC Portuguese Automatic
Breitling Transocean Chronograph LE

Admire the technology, respect the achievement, but can't bring myself to like the watch - sorry.

Certainly can't claim to hate it, but is one that my eyes could pass over without stopping in a cabinet.

Congrats on the acquisition though Driver8!

I know it's a fine watch but not really my cup of tea.

@kstone

Valve uses for decompression of the case. It releases helium which accumulates on the prolonged immersions at the greater depths and in diving bells.
It works in the one way and it's pressed out by the helium on the Lings.
Some other brands have it on screw.

Nice choice D8!

I've always liked the look of the Doxa. Don't know what the differences are between the models, they all look much alike to me.

Not in the same league but I've an Orange Monster which is my weekend beater.

_________________

For more information on identifying Breitling replicas, please visit my web site
http://f4buz.com/watches/breitling/fakes/fakes.html

Nice, Never heard of it. but I like.

Excellent purchase! I was recently doing research on these, and have really come to like Doxa. Problem is, I can't actually see one to get the whole picture, so I am very interested to read your take on the new acquisition.
I have had my eye on a Tutima DI300 recently. They have a 30% off sale at a local AD. Like you, I am a big fan of that Orange dial, and the Tutima is not unlike your Doxa.
However, since I got my Omega Aqua Terra, all spending on watches must now be curtailed, for how long I don't know. This is not a complaint - the Omega is my favourite watch ever - just the way things are right now. Doesn't stop me looking, though.
I was impressed also by the quality of the Tutima as well. Only thing is, the model is Titanium, and just feels a bit too light for me. I guess I could get over that, though.
I have to admit that my taste would likely be more for your Doxa, even over the Tutima, and I am very impressed with the model you chose! Thanks for the very informative report about it also.
Cheers,
Carl

_________________
'63 Omega Seamaster, 2014 Omega Speedmaster MarkII

"Those who possess a sense of entitlement are seldom satisfied"

I have two, Divingstar GMT and a TUSA #5 still in the factory plastic. My next will be a 5000. Nice watch!

_________________
Rolex 42mm Explorer
IWC Ingenieur

A few others too.

A very interesting watch, Driver. I've done a lot of research on the Doxa line and was almost tempted to buy one once. What stopped me was the shape of the case; I just can't warm up to it. But what you said about its motor is definitely true: it's a reliable little workhorse. And for the money you can't beat a Doxa. So enjoy, enjoy...

Steve

Nice pick-up, D8, that's a real tool watch . Certainly some retro styling in that case, somehow it puts me in mind of some old Speedmasters.

I do like that........ What's the Lume like? Any pictures?

_________________
STAFFWOLF - NAVITIMER

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4090

_________________
BREITLING EMERGENCY + UTC CORAL DIALS
BREITLING AEROSPACE TITANIUM PROF (SOLD)
ROLEX SUBMARINER BI-COLOR BLUE DIAL
LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR DIVERS
PANERAI LUMINOR

Congrats! Not quite for me, but it certainly looks impressive and sounds like you are excitied about, so great job! Enjoy it!

_________________
Chronomat, Steel/Gold, MOP Dial, 2-tone band (2008)
Super Avenger Black Baton Dial (2009)
Bentley B04 GMT Silver Dial (2013)
Avenger Blacksteel Baton Dial (2014)

Thanks a lot for all your comments guys! I always appreciate it.

I must be honest but I'm surprised (pleased, but surprised) that so many of you like it, as a lot of Doxa fans tend to find Breitlings a bit too shiny, so I was expecting the feelings to go the other way too. I guess we're just such an inclusive lot on here.

I'll try and get a lume pic tonight as well, as it's really very good.

Oh and I should point out that all watches that Doxa make are numbered limited editions. Granted the 5000T is possibly the least limited model as there are 5000 in the series, but most models are 1000 or less. Some I believe have been as low as 20. (They do a superb chronograph model - the 600T-Graph - that is limited to 250 pieces and has push-pieces that are functional underwater. It's quite a lot of cash though at around $3700 USD).

One thing I was a little concerned about was the orange dial (the "Professional" model) as I plan to wear it in all situations including with a suit, but I'm wearing it to the office today and it's fitting in absolutely fine. I could've gone for the "Sharkhunter" model (black dial) or the "Caribbean" (blue dial), but as Doxa actually invented the orange dial back in the 60's it seemed the only way to go. (That and the fact that everything else in my collection is black or white/silver). And I'm pleased to say I have absolutely no regrets at all! The orange is definitely the way to go with a Doxa!

So far it's a great watch. Lets hope it stays that way.

_________________
Driver8

Site Moderator

I like it too Driver!!

Never heard or seen that particular piece but it's definently a stand-out for me.

Cheers

_________________

Currently:
Avenger Skyland(Black)
Super Avenger(White)

Moved on:
Montbrillant Legende(Silver)
Panerai 312
SOHC 125th Ann. LE(Silver)
Navitimer World(Pearl)
Panerai 441