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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:50 pm 
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Driver8 wrote:
cRaSiAn1030 wrote:
oh ok, thanks guys. But why's it so important? Everyone makes it seem like such a big deal? Does it really live up to the hype?

It's not really about "hype". It has a lot to with exclusivity, differentiation, and craftsmanship.

The vast majority of movements in most automatic watches these days (especially at the lower end of the market) are made by ETA. If we consider the 7750 movement, which ETA/Valjoux produces, you'll find it in a huge number of watches - from Hamilton to Tag, from Ernst Benz to Breitling. The lower down the watch scale you go, the more "standard" the movement will be. In other words a company like Hamilton will just drop a standard ETA 7750 into their own case. Tag do the same. So what is there to differentiate the Tag from the Hamilton, other than a slightly different case and a different logo? Answer - not a lot. And therein lies the problem.

Additionally ETA movements are generally made in mostly automated factories ; bear in mind that the skill of watch making is perceived to be in skills of a person, not some machine. Also ETA movements, while doing the job admirably, aren't exactly interesting or innovative these days.

An in-house movement is a watch-maker's way of saying, "we are so skilled we can make our own movements from scratch, not just drop in a bog-standard ETA into a case". It also allows the watch maker to throw away the rule book and create something different - innovative chronographs, very long power reserves, super complications, all sorts of funky stuff.

In effect, an in-house movement will raise Breitling above being (and I quote one of the other forum guys here), "just a fancy case and bracelet".

Think of it this way - would a Ferrari car still be a Ferrari if they bought their engines from BMW? No, while the BMW engines are fine enough, a Ferrari is only a Ferrari if they make the engine as well. It's only the "little players" in the car industry who buy in engines : all the big boys build their own. So it is with watches.


Is it possible for me, a regular individual to purchase the ETA movements? Like just one?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:58 pm 
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You see them on eBay, they aren't expensive, especially in the lower grades. They just aren't a lot of use without a watch :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:56 pm 
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This is actually a very interesting topic. I would like to know what set a Breitling appart from all the other brands that uses the ETA 7750 movement. I think paying $4000 or up for a watch should show some perfection. I'm a perfection freak and I'm already very disappointment that my watch (Breitling AS) is off by a minute a week. Even my automatic Seiko does better. I better set the time every week otherwise I might not be in time at my customers.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:02 pm 
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kpruim wrote:
This is actually a very interesting topic. I would like to know what set a Breitling appart from all the other brands that uses the ETA 7750 movement. I think paying $4000 or up for a watch should show some perfection. I'm a perfection freak and I'm already very disappointment that my watch (Breitling AS) is off by a minute a week. Even my automatic Seiko does better. I better set the time every week otherwise I might not be in time at my customers.


I've responded to your topic on your new Skyland.

In terms of what sets Breitling apart, there have been a lot of discussions recently, Breitling does a lot of work to the movements to increase the quality of some of the parts. The majority of 7750s are not designed to be as accurate as a minute a week.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:25 am 
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To be honest. It looks like the COSC is not taken very seriously anymore.
This is what Wikipedia states: "In 1973, the B.O.’s came under the C.O.S.C. which specified a daily rate of -4/+6 sec.". Looking at that I would asume, 36 years later, we can make the watches a lot better and more accurate. A couple of other interesting things that I found on Wikipedia are: "ETA SA (full business name ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse) is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group." and: "Valjoux (for Vallée de Joux, "Joux Valley") is a Swiss manufacturer of mechanical watch movements. It is known primarily for chronograph ébauche movements that are used in a number of mid- to high-range mechanical watches: The company has been a part of ETA for a number of years and is a member of the Swatch Group.". It is interesting to see that they fall under the Swatch group. I know they make 3 grades but still can somebody tell me where the value is?
Don't get me wrong, I like the looks of Breitling. I'm just somebody that like to spend more for quality and I have a feeling that quality might mean something else for watches.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:42 am 
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kpruim wrote:
To be honest. It looks like the COSC is not taken very seriously anymore.
This is what Wikipedia states: "In 1973, the B.O.’s came under the C.O.S.C. which specified a daily rate of -4/+6 sec.". Looking at that I would asume, 36 years later, we can make the watches a lot better and more accurate. A couple of other interesting things that I found on Wikipedia are: "ETA SA (full business name ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse) is a Swiss producer of mechanical and quartz watch movements. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Swatch Group." and: "Valjoux (for Vallée de Joux, "Joux Valley") is a Swiss manufacturer of mechanical watch movements. It is known primarily for chronograph ébauche movements that are used in a number of mid- to high-range mechanical watches: The company has been a part of ETA for a number of years and is a member of the Swatch Group.". It is interesting to see that they fall under the Swatch group. I know they make 3 grades but still can somebody tell me where the value is?
Don't get me wrong, I like the looks of Breitling. I'm just somebody that like to spend more for quality and I have a feeling that quality might mean something else for watches.


No idea what your point is about the Swatch Group - it's very well known that ETA and Valjoux are owned by them.

6 seconds a day is pretty damn accurate for a mechanical device - there are 86,400 seconds in a day so that's 99.993% accurate.

If that's not good enough ETA and Valjoux make quartz movements accurate to 10 seconds a year - 99.99997% accurate.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:10 pm 
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The point that I'm trying to make is that I am from Holland living in the US now. In the 80's we bought Swatch watches for $20 in Holland. Now we laugh at it because we thought at the time we had Swiss watches. Knowing now that my $4000 watch (or for some people even more) has a movement that comes from a Swatch owned company makes me almost sick. :shock:
All I wonder is where the value of the watch is. Is it just because it is a Breitling or is there really something special inside or outside this watch?
Just don't get me wrong, I think a Ferrari owner that finds out he has a Toyota engine in his car (not a bad engine) wouldn't be happy either. He wants to see on the inside and outside that he bought something special. The same goes for me.
On top of that I think (and please tell me if I'm wrong) that 6 seconds a day is a lot. 36 Years later and we are still going by the -4/+6 seconds rule. I just can't believe that they couldn’t make a more accurate movement in this time period. It is just what one website said: “Most likely all the watches out there will qualify but the manufacturer just doesn’t want to go through the certification process”.
I know I should have looked more into this before I bought the watch but on the other side I would like to understand your guys perspective and excitement on Breitling watches.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:44 pm 
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Clearly we have a different perspective, and sorry, but yes if it's that big a deal to you then you should have looked into it more before dropping that kind of money.

If you think that COSC specs are insufficient in this day and age then I really don't know what to say to you - I personally believe that it's a level of accuracy that is exceptional for a mechanical device that is subject to the stresses and forces of being strapped to a human's wrist. I respect a difference in that belief, I just can't relate to it.

In terms of the association with Swatch, I guess I understand that, but if it makes you feel better think of the movement in your Breitling being made by Breguet, or Blancpain, or Glashutte Original, or Jaquet Droz.

Why?

Because they are all part of the Swatch Group too.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:52 pm 
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EDIT : Oops - Just realised I posted pretty much the same response as Roff! :oops: Never mind : great minds think alike and all that, so I'll leave my post here! :wink:

kpruim wrote:
On top of that I think (and please tell me if I'm wrong) that 6 seconds a day is a lot. 36 Years later and we are still going by the -4/+6 seconds rule. I just can't believe that they couldn’t make a more accurate movement in this time period.

Well, it's getting on for 9 PM here so I'm not going to get into a big discussion about this, but all I will say is that when you bear in mind there are 86400 seconds in a day, +6 seconds represents 99.993% accuracy. (The -4 seconds is even better at 99.995% accurate). That is as accurate as a mechanical movement can get. You just need to bear in mind what a frankly incredible acheivement that actually is, considering there are no computers, no circuit boards, no batteries involved. It's all spring tension, gears and cogs, and that to me (and I dare say all other watch enthusiasts the world over) is pretty damn incredible.

kpruim wrote:
I know I should have looked more into this before I bought the watch

If you are looking for atomic clock accuracy and nothing else, then I'm sorry to say it, but this statement of yours may be correct.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:21 pm 
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It amazes me that a standard created 36 years ago can't be beaten today :? . It almost tells me that they didn't improve anything.
I have to say that I put my watch on its side last night (crown up) and it slowed down 2 seconds overnight. Right now 24 hours later, the watch is 10 seconds off. Hopefully this will get better after a couple of weeks.
But please can you guys tell me what makes a Breitling so special to you guys (makes your heart beat faster)? I thought it was the design and accuracy but I was wrong on the last one.
What would be the difference between a Tag and a Breitling since they have the same movement? I know it can be taste but other than that is there a difference?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:16 pm 
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I think that you are missing the watch lovers true reasoning for buying a high end MECHANICAL watch. 300+ parts assembled in a manner that, like D8 and Roff stated, is all run using the tension of a spring. Better that that is a auto-mechanical that winds itself with the motion of your arm. Now the accuracy issue you speak of is really not an issue at all to true collectors of luxury time pieces. Why? because 6 seconds in a 24 hour period is nothing. (BTW my daily watch (Steelfish) is running at +1.2 seconds avg over the last month) to me that is exceptional. ALL high end mechanical watches are prone to this exact same condition of the laws of mechanics.

I think that you belive that a process that was invented hundreds of years ago hasnt improved. Let me assure you that a watch 200 years ago wouldnt meet COSC specs.

I buy them because they are works of art, inside and out, reliable and a testament of teh talent of the watchmaker. 6 seconds suits me fine. If I want a spot on watch I would still be wearing a $25 dollar Timex that was made in 30 seconds on an asembly line. Instead I wear a watch that took over 80 hours to assemble and test, before sent out for sale.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:58 pm 
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It's been said a few times in the last week or so, you either get it or you don't.

Anyone who has read a small selection of either Driver8's or my posts (or any of the other enthusiasts on here) and doesn't see the appeal then clearly doesn't get it. That's OK, but all the explanations in the world aren't going to make a difference.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:10 pm 
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I also think youre missing the fact that being a few seconds off per day is not a lot in the grand scheme of watches. Buy a thousand dollar Tag and dont be surprised if its 20 seconds off per day. Thats just how it is. Its normal for cheaper automatics to be 30 seconds or more off per day. Also, some cheaper watches that are a few seconds off per day are not nearly as consistent as most COSC movements. Most of or watches are off by X number of seconds per day, every single day, like clockwork. Non COSC watches are also more prone to extreme positional variations.

If you know about cars, maybe this will help. Think of a Benz AMG engine. Its based on a 'common' MBZ engine that is shared among many other models, but it has been tweaked and tuned and had parts replaced where necessary to to far more robust than its 'ordinary' counterpart. An ETA 7750 is a standard engine. A Breitling 7750 is an AMG engine.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:19 pm 
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An opportunity for typically undeserved snobbery.

Roff: I do get it. The deal here though is that other than interesting conversation points or bragging rights, where the rubber meets the road it's irrelevant. From a collector's POV, I fully understand, and would love to own one. To assert that it's automagically "better" is a little assumptive from a functionality perspective however.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:32 pm 
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The funny thing is that I thought I bought a watch for life that never needed repair or tweaking. Now it turns out that I have to adjust it every week which is a pain in the A. because I can’t set it right because the minute hand starts moving 15 seconds later. So I have to put the minute hand a little ahead so I can cover the 15 seconds of not moving. For me this is already not the precision that I thought Swiss precision would be. For me a Breitling is what a ham radio is to radio freaks. They are so excited that have internet over air. That they have to wait almost an hour for the page to be loaded, they don’t care.
I can’t be surrounded around magnetic fields because the watch might get off. I have to put the watch on its side overnight to make the watch go slower so it will be less off. Not even talking about how long you have to miss the watch (4 weeks for re-adjusting) when you have to send it in for service or repair. All this for a very nice big price. You really need to explain the fun of this since I have seen a lot of people talking about it.
Yes, you guys are right; I don’t see fun in this at all. I want a watch to wear and needs to have the right time. I also like a timeless model. Spending 2 years of savings on a Breitling was not smart.
Anybody interested in my watch?


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