I closed on two grail pieces of mine, actually uber grails!
The first is a watch that is commonly referred to as the finest watch ever made, only an upgraded version. The ALS Double Split in platinum with a black dial. That watch is supreme, I am so glad I did not go for the PLM!
https://www.******.com/articles/found ... less-steelGreat dimensions at 43MM, a bit thick but I really like that in a sport watch. I really do believe a sport watch has to be large, my range for dress is 40-42, sport is 43-45 with few notable exceptions to these ranges if I really like the watch, such as the Lange 1815 AC at 39.5 or the JLC Extreme Lab or PAM 127, but I digress.
Another interesting categorization to contemplate, most sane people simply categorize watches as either dress or sport, but an overly addicted and clearly demented person might categorize his collection of watches as such:
Business watches: Those that are appropriate for a classical office setting. Stern, classy, understated, and functional. Annual Calendars are my choice here. My ALS 1815 AC and Patek Nautilus AC have been my daily business watches to great effect and satisfaction.
Proper dress watches: Reserved for formal events or a conservative setting, thin and elegant with no loud colours. Some might say no complications and no date, I do not care. My Patek 5270 (a chrono) is dominating this category for me now.
Casual Sport Watch: a sport watch that is not intended to be used playing sports, rather evoking a sporty spirit to enhance mood and apparel. The Chronograph and divers are the main players here. For instance my new Vacheron Overseas chrono is a lovely and capable sports watch, with a water resistance and chronograph up to all sporting I might attempt, but I wouldn't subject it to anything other than a dip in the pool for fear of ruining that heavenly finish. Also a watch that has a complication that you do not use but enjoy having for emotional impact, ala Navitimer slide rule bezel.
Hardcore Sport watch: A watch you do wear during your sporting activities, running/diving/gym etc. I have used the excellent Deepsea in all of those situations to great effect, and I imagine I will do that even more once I get the rubber strap for it.
Beater: The watch you use while mixing cement or if you expect you will have your arms fully submerged in buckets of shrimp. I have a Seiko 5 that is a testament to Japanese reliability and an Oris Diver that makes a tank seem like a napkin holder for those lovely times.
Everyone will have different dimensions based on wrist size and personal preference, my range for sport and sport casual is 43-45, my problem previously with the Datograph, other than the extreme price, was the diminutive size at 39 or just recently 41MM. When Lange decided to break new ground and introduce the first real evolution of the chronograph they had to create a wide and higher case, to my favor and delight. This is one watch I cant believe I am about to own! So excited to get this one!
The Lange will be my main casual sport watch going forward, the Nautilus Chrono will be taking second chair.
The second incoming piece was the result of my recent experience with the Vacheron Overseas Chrono, I am so taken with that watch I started to read up more on the brand, and really fell for a few pieces. Most are out of my price range, with prices from 200-400K
Truly dreamy watches though, close to Lange quality and with a charm and air to them that is difficult to explain. I also really like how they maintain classical design with no compromise, its like buying a vintage watch that was just made, if that makes any sense. I also love the fact that they have updated their sizes while maintaining classical designs.
http://watchesbysjx.com/2018/10/vachero ... eview.htmlAlthough most of their watches that I really liked are out there price wise (or just too old looking and boring), there is one watch that seems to have everything the brand excels at, is within reach, and is an extremely limited edition. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
The Excellence Platine series is similar to Langes PLM series, they take their complications and design entirely new watches, including custom cases and dials, in a seriously limited offering, in this case 100 pieces world wide, with the very highest level of finishing Vacheron can possibly offer, and then some. As the name suggests everything is made out of platinum, the choice material for the ultimate version of each of their movements will reside in, even the strap stiching is made out of silk that was dipped into platinum (apparently silk can handle that process).
I particularly liked how this model offered a 41MM conservative look, perfect to brighten up those long days in the office, with an understated yet supremely elegant look. I thought this one really was a home run for VC, it was the perfect amalgamation of classical 40s style with a modern, monotone update. The shade and quantity of blue looks absolutely stunning with that platinum! And, very importantly, this model has a feature that VC is very know for nd admired by enthusiasts, the moon phase they do is unmatched. Just unreal how beautiful it is.
The spacing of the day and month windows was modified on this 100 piece model so that they where tucked away on the sides, further updating the look of the watch, the coin edge case although classical does not seem aged at all. Unbelievable design win for VC, thankfully half the price of their highly coveted PC too!
The only downside I could find was that it was a complete calendar rather than an Annual Calendar (complete has to be corrected five times a year, annual only once). I do not understand how a brand such as VC goes about resurrecting an ancient complication (they released three other models in the same year with the same complication) but do not offer an Annual Calendar! The street price is a tad higher than the Nautilus Annual Calendar, yes that is in steel but the small amount of platinum does not account for a 40 year old complication, especially when VC have been working on other futuristic movements such as their recent Twin Beat.
What gives? I asked around, and was told that a great deal of enthusiasts and collectors find older movement designs have a certan charm to them, and that they seek thesse out. Not unlike those collectors who would prefer a Lemania powered uber PC over an in house one. That just seemed odd to me, but the watch had so much going for it I decided to just accept I will have to correct it five times a year. I hope that does not annoy me to the level I cant enjoy the watch. I was swept off my feet though when a Vacheron rep told me the concept tp remember when understanding the Excellence Platine projects is that they are a remake of 7 legendary movements that have secured the brand the reputation it enjoys throughout history, and that they will not offer the same models in a better finished or executed model again. That might explain the contrast between such an obsolete movement and the futuristic Twin Beat, it might be VC closing a chapter and looking to the future. The new Overseas certainly seems to comply with that new design language and youthful take on dial colour and much larger size. If that is the case this series might be a real collectors dream piece down the road.
Very excited about these two, but will have to sell a few of the existing collection to come up with the remaining cash, as I only could put down 50% of the price of the Vacheron, and I already traded 12 watches for the Lange Double Split. Tough choices, but I did say I wanted a smaller and more impactful collection.
Anyway, I really would like your opinions on the Vacheron. If you have the time do some reading and let me know your thoughts. Also, do you classify your watches and if so what are your categories? Always interesting to hear how others mights segregate and aproach their collections!
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