The Breitling Watch Source Forums

These are two watches that seem to have common owners, in that many that have one brand also have the other etc. Having transitioned from a Breitling Crosswind TT to a Panerai 112 and now back to a SOH 46, I have some impressions about the ownership experience.

The first is that the CWTT was a beautiful piece, and very comfortable. Where it failed is versatility, or lack thereof. It was so well adorned that it was inappropriate with anything other than a suit or well-appointed business casual attire. The gold for me was a bit much, and unfortunately we cannot evaluate watches outside of what we wear with them. If we could, we would allow ourselves to wear our Ferragamos with socks and shorts. When my interest in that piece was waning, I thought going the exact opposite direction into the austere was the solution, hence my interest in Panerai.

I liked the 112. It is very versatile precisely because it is very boring. The strap thing was a draw to me initially, but became almost burdensome as I began to want to change straps to coordinate belt and shoe and that's kinda silly. Also, for what I got the 112 for it became increasingly apparent that value simply wasn't there -- the build, fit and finish on an equivalently-priced Breitling is really no contest. Also, well, the whole Paneristi thing is excessively douchey and frankly a little creepy IMO, what with the way these borderline cultists make the brand less about the watch and more about the clique that they've formed around it. Sorry, it is just a watch. The whole thing is really embarrassing and felt the need to distance myself from that element quickly. I've also read things surrounding their service that is very arrogant in keeping with price increases and the need to make the brand seem more exclusive and important than it is in the world of hologerie. It ain't haute.

That said, Panerai at its core raised my appreciation for simpler designs and versatility. The SOH 46 melds the two worlds between versatility and visual detail without feeling like I'm paying for a trendy name. You cannot purchase a new SOH for the same dollars as a used Panerai base, which is laughable as an owner of both. Plus, you can swap straps if you want on the 46, and the look lends itself to vintage leather as you see fit. Mine is on the rubber Ocean Racer deployant and it's fantastic. You just need a Bergeon tool instead of a screwdriver or specialized pusher to make a swap, but so what. Unlike OEM Panerai straps which are just good enough to make you want to look to the aftermarket, this strap is a comfortable change.

I'm posting this because most Breitlings and Panerai are different enough to make people think they need one of each for maximum versatility. I don't think so. If you want a nicer "beater" Hamilton and a host of other brands makes far more sense. I'm firmly back in the Breitling "fold" in that I'd always recommend the brand over Panerai and many others that charge for something other than what you tangibly get in return.

I'm not intending for this to be controversial, but there's little point in mincing words. With items like these we let our emotions think for us -- these are toys after all -- and said feelings will probably drive your individual purchase decisions more than return on investment. If it didn't, lets be honest, we wouldn't purchase Breitlings

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Avenger Skyland
If I said I was good, you'd think I was bragging.
If I told you I wasn't, you'd know I was lying.

I'm with you, and I don't mean to flat out bash Panerai. I just don't get it... I have tried to get into the brand, but everything is so similar, and bland I just can't. My dad has a 40mm, PAM that he doesn't wear too often, I told him he could give that one to my brother one day

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sco
Breitling Chrono Superocean
Omega Aqua Terra 8500
Rolex Submariner Date Ceramic

Panerai tries to placate Paneristi with SEs and various things because (apparently) their opinions are influential to the brand. So you have an overpriced basic watch that appeals to a small clique.

Panerai may want to address that.

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Avenger Skyland
If I said I was good, you'd think I was bragging.
If I told you I wasn't, you'd know I was lying.

I think that's what made Panerais popular too. They always look the same, an indication of timeless beauty to many. This made them more desirable and command higher resale values other than Rolex in my country. They look bland but attract consumers with their original looking sandwich dials. Their watches are very recognizable from far. They also have this unique capability of being able to fit aesthetically on small wrists even with bigger sizes. I can only take up to 44mm for most watches but for a PAM I think I can take up to 50mm. My wife and I used to belittle PAMs too until one day we passed by a boutique and tried a few ourselves. My wife was very impressed by the quality feel.

Having said that if I can only choose one, I think it will still be a Ling. Not saying that which is better because both styles are different except that they are both famous with their bigger sizes. But Lings have that "pro yet sexy" look that so far I cannot find in other brands. But I do look forward to a PAM in my collection one day. It's still something different as compared to conventional looking watches.

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Breitling Chronomat 01 Limited Edition
Breitling Navitimer 01 46mm

Personally I love Panerai, although I agree that the base models (like 112) are extremely difficult to justify in terms of cost.

But like anything in life it's each to their own.

That said, the only thing I would specifically disagree with in Peezie's post is the part about Panerai's build, fit and finish being no contest to a similarly priced Breitling. In my experience (and I own a Panerai myself) Panerai is every bit as good as Breitling/Omega build-wise. I just think the generally simple/clean designs tend to make it look like less goes into them when you compare them to Breitling/Omega with their applied indices and logos, etc.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

+1 essentially. I'd love one of the smaller, eg 40mm Pans, but they just seem a bit too expensive for what they are.

In some parts of the world size regardless of proportion dominates the choice. There are some wrists that can't support bigger pieces as a simple matter of mathematical proportion. Ironically, it seems those with smaller wrists are the ones that can't overlook that. It's ironic that in SE Asia, for example, the SA is the most popular Breitling even though it doesn't take a tape measure to figure out why that doesn't work.

In terms of "feel" sure, I can see where the heft influences that. For me, there's just not enough there there. Perhaps if I had a less-basic piece my opinion might change but then we're really getting out of hand in the value quotient.

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Avenger Skyland
If I said I was good, you'd think I was bragging.
If I told you I wasn't, you'd know I was lying.

Sorry to quote the whole post, but I definitely agree with you on the OEM straps, they are not that great. Breitling straps areuch nicer IMO. I still love my 328, and while I like how it looks on the bracelet, it feels better on a good strap.

There are Pams that are very nice, don't misunderstand. I suppose my point is that, for a watch brand that construction-wise is IMO at a lesser grade than many of its competitors if you have to approach five figures to get to an above average level I can't justify it. At that point with a watch you probably should be looking at something with more long term appeal and frankly better internals.

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Avenger Skyland
If I said I was good, you'd think I was bragging.
If I told you I wasn't, you'd know I was lying.

One of the other thing I don't like about PAMs is perharps the aesthetics of their movements. I also don't know why but I thought they look rather bland. To pay a premium for a watch not only the watch must appeal aesthetically to me, the movement must too!

I would say that PAMs are good to have in the collection but hard to satisfy as a Grail. That's just my own personal views. However that doesn't stop me from wanting to have one in future. I think their black Ceramicas look awesome, except the price of course.

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Breitling Chronomat 01 Limited Edition
Breitling Navitimer 01 46mm

I was actually thinking about this the other night, and was wondering why the movement was not more decorated or worked, but I came to the conclusion that the movement actually looks tough like that to me, coinciding with the theme of the overall appearance. It works for me and I really enjoy mine!

I do miss having a Breitling in the rotation, but something tells me it won't be long before another one finds it's way in.

Get the bracelet for your Diver first

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Justin
Please contact me via PM for the contact details for Govberg Jewelers
Govberg is an AD for over 50 fine Swiss and German watch brands.
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Already ordered! Takes 4 weeks, ordered it from Alaina.

Not really lack of decoration, but more of the "structure". I enjoy movements not over fanciful looking and look "raw" and tough like what you mentioned, which PAMs do have it. But to me it's more of like it's structure that it's very "covered up" so I cannot really see what's going on inside, unlike B01 where it's very "raw looking" and also it is very "opened" and allows you to see many of the components inside which is a visual pleasure. Not sure if you understand what I mean. Therefore even for PAMs with a transparent caseback I cannot really admire the movement since it's quite "covered up".

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Breitling Chronomat 01 Limited Edition
Breitling Navitimer 01 46mm