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When handling the new Chronomat 44 at the AD, I noticed they changed the end link design on the pilot bracelet. Anyone know why they did this? It's not integrated with the case anymore, and seems kind of like an afterthought. Is this supposed to be a cool new design style, cause I don't get it....think the older integrated design looks much better. There's now an unsightly gap between the end link and the case.

Is there? I hadn't noticed that. I hate unsightly gaps with a passion, so I would think I'd have picked up on that. Typically, the kind of gap that bothers me is when you have a rounded case edge next to a straight edge on a strap or bracelet. On the Chronomat, the case edge between the lugs is flat, so the endpieces fit more or less flush. I guess there has to be a slight gap just to allow for the pivoting motion of the endpiece, but it isn't something I noticed as egregious.

I don't have an answer for your question as to why they did it, but I can speculate as to a couple reasons. The endpieces on the older Pilot design never integrated particularly well with the case anyway, as the links stuck out beyond the lugs. By modifying the design, it seems as though this aspect is now made overt, rather than seeming like something that was an oversight. Also, the newer endpiece design is the same as that on the Bentley Speed bracelets, so it apparently is seen by Breitling as higher end. I have to say, when I saw it in person, I really liked it. I didn't think it looked like an afterthought at all. In fact, it was one of the few changes Breitling made to the Chronomat that I actually thought was an improvement.

It is constructed more like a strap. The Navi bracelet for my Chonomatic 44 is the same. Personally I prefer it on a Pilot or Navi and here is why - (1) you don't end op with little projections at the end of the end link (2) it is more comfortable and has a nice drape and fit and (3) it allows for some additional possibilities for those with smaller wrists.

I consider it an upgrade in appearance as well and I can't imagine there was meaningful cost difference.


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SHARKMAN

Thanks. So this is what I'm talking about...see the gap between the case and the end link?...


Whereas on the older models, the bracelet is integrated with the case (ie. no gap):


I guess some view the change as good.

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18k Rolex Datejust / Breitling Crosswind Special / Patek SS Nautilus / Bvlgari Diagono Chrono / Bvlgari Scuba / Omega Speedmaster Professional / 60s Omega Constellation

Have you seen the gap in person? Admittedly it doesn't look good in that picture, but I'm not sure I trust it completely. Other stock pictures don't make it look that bad. And like I said, when I saw it in person, it didn't bother me, and I'm usually really anal about that kind of thing. Not that I'm trying to say you should like it. There's no right or wrong here. Even without the gap, it sounds like you don't like the look of it. I'm just saying I wouldn't go strictly by a stock pic from a gray market seller.

Also, one more thing to mention - your CWS has straight lugs. The curvature comes directly from the end links, so they're supposed to overextend and hang down. That's just part of the look, not a design "flaw." The problem is, with the Evo, they went to curved lugs, yet still there was the overextension of the end links, which to me didn't look so good. It wasn't awful - far better the end links be too long than too short (cough - Pro 2 - cough), but even so. In the case of your watch, I think the older end link design works well, and I can see why you like it.

I have seen it in person, and tried it on. I am not crazy about the change in end link design, but did notice that the watch sat nice and flat on the wrist. Perhaps the new design helped with that a bit.

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18k Rolex Datejust / Breitling Crosswind Special / Patek SS Nautilus / Bvlgari Diagono Chrono / Bvlgari Scuba / Omega Speedmaster Professional / 60s Omega Constellation

Yes, it does look different, never gave it much thought to be honest and I doubt that I will.
Does not seem to bother me.

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"It is just a matter of time!"

Not to disparage the Chronomat, as it is a great watch, but that design just reminds me of a sorta vintage style. Perhaps they were going for a retro look. It does make the bracelet look more like a strap, but if I wanted a strap look on the watch, I'd put on a strap. I just don't get it on this I guess. As long as people like it I suppose.

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18k Rolex Datejust / Breitling Crosswind Special / Patek SS Nautilus / Bvlgari Diagono Chrono / Bvlgari Scuba / Omega Speedmaster Professional / 60s Omega Constellation

The watch looks good on your wrist because of that end link design actually, since the watch head is proportionally large to your wrist. If the bracelet was integrated, it might look too large for your wrist I think. Perhaps that's the advantage.

That Timex picture illustrates what I was talking about earlier - the rounded case edge opposite a straight bracelet edge, revealing a sizeable gap, made worse by the fact the bracelet doesn't even really look like it belongs with the watch. This is actually my chief criticism of the otherwise excellent TOC, and probably the single thing that keeps me from seeing it as a realistic purchase option. That's how much that kind of thing bothers me. I just see the Pilot/Speed end link design to be on a different plane. While not strictly integrated, it looks to me like a lot of thought went into the design, and it fits well with the case, making the overall look "all of a piece" with itself. That's my take, at least. (I will say, though, that if everything else on the 44 were the same, but the case edge between the lugs was rounded instead of straight, I would most likely hate it. That straight edge makes all the difference, imo.)

Wessa, that's a stunning looking Chronomat 01 LE.

IMHO, completely agree.
Best,
Ron

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"The Sailor Who Fell From Grace With The Sea"...

Click to view: 500px Photo Gallery "Flow" or... 500px Photo Gallery or... Breitling Pics Slideshow

I just wanted to set subjectivity aside and be completely
Objective - all you guys who don't like it are simply WRONG!


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SHARKMAN

I agree about the sleek look of the integrated end-link, but there's an advantage of the new design, and to me that's found in how it looks on a strap. The rounded case where it meets the bracelet gives it a slightly more finished look.

Here's my Blackbird...



Here's my B01 LTD...





Now, mind you these are small differences, and only us WIS would notice these things, but the eye sees what the eye sees and I know there are certain things that bug me too about certain watches, but I find on a strap the look is a little cleaner.







I like 'em both, and to me neither are ugly.

Cheers guys.

Ross

Lol. I'm glad we solved that argument.

Have to agree... Off the wrist the gap is distracting at first... But on Wessa's wrist it isn't noticeable and in fact seems to give a better overall fit for a smaller wrist (something I appreciate given my small wrists!)