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Back, though jetlagged, I can now continue my trip summary.
First, I'd like to put in a word for boondoggles and specifically, being the spouse of the object of the boondoggle. No obligations, trendy restaurants, someone else picks up the bill. Actually, the sponsor said they got a lot of worthwhile feedback from it, so I don't feel too bad about the extra Scotch.
Okay, on to business...
Serge, here's what I can tell you about the Breguet XXII. While its incrementally larger in case size and depth than the XXI, it still fit well. Definitely more sporty with the red and black accents on the black dial, and red-white accents on the black leather band. I think others do deployments better, but still very nice. Red rotor visible in a half-moon opening on the back case, with nice finishing on the back.
The star of the show is the 10 Hz movement. Where you really notice it is in the seconds subdial, which is larger and less cluttered than on the XXI. With the high frequency silicon movement, it's the smoothest I have ever seen. I just kept watching it go round and round, mesmerized like a little kid.
The salesperson at the boutique, Walter, was great. I first noticed the sport-diving version of the Marine, which I didn't realize was about $43,000. I told him that was more than I was really interested in, seeing the XXII would be fine, but his response was, "you're looking at watches, let's have some fun." I had a regular Marine large date out too, which was really nice. The Marine Diver had the underwater alarm and the blend of dive-watch brawn with traditional Breguet dress touches, and was a neat watch, but I'd take the $19,000 Type XXII in a heartbeat.
The other feature of the XXII movement was the chronograph seconds counter. Nice red hand, but with the special movement it makes a revolution every 30 seconds. It was again so smooth but functionally, it would take getting used to. There are counters on the edge of the dial for each 30-second revolution, but they are very small and while the minute counter remains a full-size hand on the full dial (my favorite chronograph feature), you have to look closely to accurately count it. My concern would be that if you don't use the chronograph function that much or wear a variety of chtonographs you might not ever fully adapt to it. Deal killer, though? Not with how smooth that movement is, and it is a gorgeous beast. With watch prices doing what they are now, and the technological advances with the movement, I think it's a reasonable deal for a stunning piece.
Tom--what did I buy? Sadly, nothing this time. This was a scouting trip perhaps for next year, when a certain dastardly birthday comes up. You were right--when I bought the Breguet XXI, the game changed. I went looking for proper companions to it. Since you can find Breitling and Rolex at home, NYC was a "big game hunting" trip, and let's face it--walking in wearing the XXI got everybody's attention. IF I had bought something this trip, (assuming I could justify the funds) it would probably have been between two $13,000 watches--the VC Overseas and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
Before a couple of recent posts here, this watch wasn't on my radar. Boy, is it now. It was, admittedly, my first stop on Friday, but it kept coming back, others didn't compare, to the point that if I had just had 30 more minutes of free time on Saturday, I was going back to the VC boutique. The basic three-dial, in black, is such a beautiful and balanced piece. I no longer have any desire for a Royal Oak. Beautiful gilloche dial, excellent integration with the bracelet, which is fantastic. With what I have, I could buy it, add a less expensive diver and call it a collecting career.
As much as the VC appeals to my sense of quality, class and elegance, the Fifty Fathoms appeals to my emotions. For me, the perfect heft of any watch I have worn. Knockout dial and bezel, craftsmanship just oozing out of it, not even the fabric strap stops it, though they do have a matte croc band now. There was a moment on Friday when...well, this watch could have done damage to my marriage.
There were others. I still like the JLC Compressors (standard, not SEALS, the 41mm is fine for me), and it's amazing to me how much better they look on leather strap than bracelet. I am torn over the Glashutte Sport Evolution Panorama Date. The overall look is awfully close to the Fifty, plus with the iconic big date, for $5K less. It's really handsome, but is there such a thing as an $8000 "almost" watch? It deserves better, as all Glashuttes do but I felt that way, and I felt the same way measuring a more traditional Glashutte against a JLC Geographic. I went to Omega for a reality check of sorts and tried on both size POs. Now I know why I can't warm up completely to them. The look and quality is there, even with what else I saw, but to me they don't make the right size--the 42 seems too small and the 45 seems too big. The IWC Aquatimer has the right size and doesn't cost much more than a new PO. That detachable band feature is tremendous, and the bezel is special in its own way. It wasn't on "the list" before this trip. It might be, now.
I still didn't stop everywhere-- I window-shopped briefly at Panerai and GP. Franck Muller is also building a boutique, which ought to be interesting. I caught a few Breitlings, Rolexes and APs at Wempe, to save time. The AP boutique did not have that great a reputation, so I was told. Saw the B01 Navis--love the arabic numerals, but I'm still loving my Heritage. Long-winded enough? Anyway, wonderful trip.
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Scott
AP Royal Oak 15400, silver
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Classic Cars
Vintage gold Corum
Rolex DJ 36 TT, oyster dial, oyster/smooth
Baume & Mercier Riviera 200m, silver dial/aquamarine bezel
Breitling Superocean 57, rose/stainless
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