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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:49 pm 
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Thanks for that onewatchnut. I think I'm going to take the TZ school and spend some money on a proper set of tools. I want to be able to bias bracelets etc requiring repeated removal of the same size screws with out ever leaving a mark. I already have to buy new screws as it is, or wait till my watch goes in next year for service and have it done there. I noted the ends of the screws had what looks to be red lock fastener. Or is it something else?

I want to know more, every little detail about it. Can you reccomend a good book?

Thanks again!!! :lingsrock:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 1:52 pm 
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JustinFournier wrote:
I want to know more, every little detail about it. Can you reccomend a good book?



Take a look at Donald De Carle's books Practical Watch Repair and Practical Watch Adjusting as fairly accessible entry reading. There are other more practical ones, but those are easy to find and very good.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:35 pm 
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Thanks Roff the Prof!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:58 pm 
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Found Practical watch repair. Ordered that and a UV LED flashlight to toy with Lum.

Thanks Roff!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:00 pm 
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How can you tell if the tip of the blade has bottomed out at the bottom of the screwhead (not good) or whether it is stopped by resting on the side walls of the screw (correct scenario)? Thanks Also do you use blue loctite on the screws?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:59 pm 
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According to the book, the tip of the driver is supposed to be on the bottom of the screw, nearly or the full width of it, and not too thick as to sit on the edges of the screw, or it will maul the head of the screw.

I have not used loc-tite, but I believe some manufacturers do.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 4:17 am 
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rgilbert24 wrote:
How can you tell if the tip of the blade has bottomed out at the bottom of the screwhead (not good) or whether it is stopped by resting on the side walls of the screw (correct scenario)? Thanks Also do you use blue loctite on the screws?



Just look at it from the side. I don't use loctite on movement screws, sometimes on bracelet / clasp, but only if they tend to back out.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:51 am 
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Don't want to get mired down in technique here, but the screwdriver can easily slip off the screw and leave a mark on the plate if it is loose in the slot and not in good contact with the walls. Screw heads can be marred by forcing a screwdriver into a slot that is too narrow for the blade. A properly fitting screwdriver will not harm the screw head and will be less likely to slip.

I go back to my use of Rodico to remove the screw after breaking the bond with the screwdriver. It also picks up any dirt on the screw head. With experience you can get away with using a blade that is a little loose, but it will always try to slip out as you rotate the driver, especially when the screw is almost out and starts to tip over.

The bottom line is do whatever you like. If it works for you, it is right for you. I know what works for me. It may be a little more tedious, but I like the results better.

When I examine a movement for the first time, I look for tool marks from the person(s) who worked on it before. It is a pretty good indication of the quality of the workmanship I will find inside.

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