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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 10:26 pm 
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What are the screws for? do they hold the bezel in place or something else?

I was going to ensure they were tight but wasn't to sure if I should touch them.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:10 pm 
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Quote:
hold the bezel in place or something else


That is precisely what they are for. The hallmark "B" on the side of the bezel is a sign to jewelers that the bezel is not pressure fit.

Don't mess with them. They are originally set with some form of locktite. The last thing you need is a big gouge from a slipped screw driver.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:23 pm 
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The hallmark "B" on the side of the bezel is a sign to jewelers that the bezel is not pressure fit.
Interesting, never heard that before. I'd always believed it originated as an anti-counterfeiting mark - which lasted about 5 minutes once the fakers saw it! :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 4:49 pm 
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I learned that on here. It was Breitling's message to watch guys not to pry the bezel off. I think it's asfe to say everything I know about wayches I learned here - except which particular models are the right "fit" for me. This site is an tremendous resource. And the members are always helpful. Good stuff.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 2:24 am 
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Just to enlarge on what Sharkman said there about not messing with the bezel screws - I'd certainly not mess with the B1's bezel, or any of the others that use the rack and pinion slide-rule. like the Motors etc. They are slightly more tricky to put back and best left to the pros. The standard uni-directional bezel on the Chronomat and the Aeromarine models are easier to take off as you don't compromise the water resistance of the case by removing it. The screws are as easy to remove as bracelet screws IMO. I only ever had to remove a bezel once on an old Steelfish beater of mine when it got so dirty it was the only way to clean out from under the bezel. It was an easy job.

But yes, back on the original point, the B1 bezel is best left alone.

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