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This may well have been asked before and if so I would appreciate a link to that thread. On a two tone Steel & 18ct gold Chronomat Evolution, what parts of the watch are gold and are they gold plated or solid?

Thanks.

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Gone: TT Chronomat Evolution (Blue Face)
Saving for: SOH 42

The bezel is solid, but the crown and push-pieces are rolled-gold (like plated but thicker).

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Driver8

Site Moderator

So the push pieces are hollow Gold? or are they Gold over another metal?

Thanks for the reply - is the sweeping seconds hand solid gold?

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Gone: TT Chronomat Evolution (Blue Face)
Saving for: SOH 42

Gold over steel

From one of my "articles" on another Breitling forum ...


BREITLING "Rolled Gold"
Prior to 1994 when the "D" model was introduced, Breitling used the "B" in the model number to indicate "bi-color" or "two-tone". An all stainless steel "Old Navitimer" was a model A13019 while the "two-tone" was model B13019. The subdials are solid "2n" 18k yellow gold but the bezel was actually 316L stainless steel with 20 micron "rolled" 18K gold surface. When the D13019 Old Navitimer was introduced, the bezel became solid 18K gold. On modern Breitling watches in other series lines (Windrider, Professional, Aeromarine}, the "B" prefix in the model number indicates two tone "accents" (rider tabs, pushers, crown) while the "D" prefix indicates solid 18K gold bezel, typically with stainless steel rider tabs. Although the bezels (and rider tabs when applicable) on Breitlings today are solid 18 K gold, the crowns, pushers and gold "link segments" of the two tone bracelets remain 20 micron rolled gold as always. "Rolled" gold is not the same as less expensive and less durable "plated" (electroplated) gold. "Rolled" gold is a laminate of solid 18K gold sheet fused to a base layer (usually brass) which is typically rolled out after lamination, hence the term "rolled". The gold layer is much thicker than the microscopically thin deposit laid down by electroplating, and much more resistant to wear, being alloy gold rather than soft 24K (recent improvements in electroplating have enabled much harder deposits, but they remain extremely thin). Often, the "rolled" gold layer is so thick it can be engraved without exposing the base layer. Needless to say, there is a big difference in appearance between the superficial flash of an electroplated surface and the rich depth of gold filled metal. That said, zealous overpolishing of a rolled gold surface can indeed expose the base metal underneath, and extremely frequent use of chrono pushers and crown can do the same thing. When you send a two tone watch to Breitlng for service and polishing, it is prudent to speak to your service representative and express a concern for the piece in terms of an overpolishing possibility. Sound like experience talking? Yes, it is, and Breitling can "fix" the problem by replacing the parts with new. I recently had my Breitling authorized service center in Houston replace both chrono pushers on my two tone Crosswind for this very problem. Breitling USA overpolished my B13019 Old Navitimer and ended up putting a brand new bezel and caseback on the watch for me a few years ago. Anyway, I hope all this makes sense to you and is helpful.
Cheers,
Ron

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"The Sailor Who Fell From Grace With The Sea"...

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Ok so the Bezels are "SOLID GOLD" but the pushers are "ROLLED GOLD" over Brass or Steel.
Feel like ive been had?
Are the hands GOLD?

Ok. so what about the bracelet. is that gold or gold plated?

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AlphabetABC

Rolex Daytona TT
Omega Planet Ocean Chronograph
Breitling Navitimer 01 Red Gold

No, they are made from brass.


On TT golden links are rolled.
On full gold, it's solid gold.

When I was at my AD picking up my cockpit my client picked his TT cockpit up as well, the AD said that the gold portions of the bracelet were in fact a layer of gold over Steel. He said to be careful to not over polish the gold links as over time they would go down to the base steel. he did say though that it was a thick layer of gold so I am guessing that it is the Rolled gold mentioned above. In fact he did stress to point out it was not "mere" plating but in fact a solid layer of gold over the steel!

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All the best.
Ian

Brass hands? thought they would have been Gold.
Can't beleive the only solid Gold on my watch is the Bezel

The hands are gold plated brass. They take no wear from abrasion as they are inside the case so it's not like the plating will come off.

In actual fact most people (myself included) feel like that when they first find out, but it really makes more sense for the crown and pushpieces to be steel because 18K gold is very soft. For durability, it's much more sensible for the pushpeices and crown to have a steel core.

Likewise on the TT bracelets. The steel components would start to wear the gold links away very quickly. If you don't believe me try wearing a steel ring next to a gold one for a year.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Can see your point.
Just makes you feel a bit cheated.
Are the numerals Brass too or just colored?

Gold plated brass too.

To be fair, most manufaturers use brass for the dial "furniture", with various types of plating on them. Rhodium, palladium, gold, platinum..... all sorts, but brass is generally the metal of choice as the substrate.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

If it makes you feel better......

The applied wings logos are gold