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Pre-Owned SuperOcean or New Colt Chrono II
SuperOcean 82%  82%  [ 9 ]
Colt Chrono II 18%  18%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 11
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:16 pm 
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nickzac wrote:
Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced (less accurately mind you) until the watch itself breaks requiring both repair and service.


Not at all.

Modern synthetic lubricants are wonderful, but they can't defeat the laws of chemistry. Beyond about 7 years those oils will have broken down and you will be running a watch with no lubricant at all. Sure the watch will run, but the friction on arbors, pivots, wheels, etc will be significantly increased causing a lot of additional servicing costs. Evidence here - http://home.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-432276/


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:29 pm 
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I have the colt 44 on OR strap and I love it. It is the perfect size. Contact govbergs to see what they have available.
I know the true enthusiasts dislike quartz for over $2000 but for a casual admirer like me its perfect. I have owned Breitling autos and prefer the ease and low maintenance of the quartz. Currently I do have my eye on an omega planet ocean 8500, so I like auto's as well.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:07 pm 
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Roffensian wrote:
nickzac wrote:
Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced (less accurately mind you) until the watch itself breaks requiring both repair and service.


Not at all.

Modern synthetic lubricants are wonderful, but they can't defeat the laws of chemistry. Beyond about 7 years those oils will have broken down and you will be running a watch with no lubricant at all. Sure the watch will run, but the friction on arbors, pivots, wheels, etc will be significantly increased causing a lot of additional servicing costs. Evidence here - http://home.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-432276/



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Synthetic watch oils do retain their properties longer and watch movements run longer without wear than did movements oiled with animal oils. But synthetic watch oils have their serious downside as well. There is not the thickening and caking of the oil to stop the movement and force the owner to have his watch serviced before wear can take place. Synthetic watch oils, too, deteriorate but instead of thickening they tend to become more liquid, spread and evaporate over time, especially the synthetics of the recent past. The significant of this type of deterioration is that the movement will continue to run even as the synthetic oil deteriorates and evaporates (albeit less efficiently). This will continue until pivots score, often to the point of breaking and brass bearing holes wear ovoid, aggravated by dust, dirt and rust particles from leaking case gaskets and more significantly, leaking crown gaskets. Unless the owner is disciplined with a regular and frequent service schedule (and most of us aren’t), it is the worn out movement that forces the owner to seek the servicing of the watch with a resultant extensive and expensive repair bill. The jewelled bearings and highly polished pivots and other bearing surfaces will allow the watch to run without oil but with resultant wear.


http://www.horologicalservices.com/how_ ... be_ser.htm


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:16 pm 
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nickzac wrote:
Roffensian wrote:
nickzac wrote:
Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced (less accurately mind you) until the watch itself breaks requiring both repair and service.


Not at all.

Modern synthetic lubricants are wonderful, but they can't defeat the laws of chemistry. Beyond about 7 years those oils will have broken down and you will be running a watch with no lubricant at all. Sure the watch will run, but the friction on arbors, pivots, wheels, etc will be significantly increased causing a lot of additional servicing costs. Evidence here - http://home.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-432276/



Quote:
Synthetic watch oils do retain their properties longer and watch movements run longer without wear than did movements oiled with animal oils. But synthetic watch oils have their serious downside as well. There is not the thickening and caking of the oil to stop the movement and force the owner to have his watch serviced before wear can take place. Synthetic watch oils, too, deteriorate but instead of thickening they tend to become more liquid, spread and evaporate over time, especially the synthetics of the recent past. The significant of this type of deterioration is that the movement will continue to run even as the synthetic oil deteriorates and evaporates (albeit less efficiently). This will continue until pivots score, often to the point of breaking and brass bearing holes wear ovoid, aggravated by dust, dirt and rust particles from leaking case gaskets and more significantly, leaking crown gaskets. Unless the owner is disciplined with a regular and frequent service schedule (and most of us aren’t), it is the worn out movement that forces the owner to seek the servicing of the watch with a resultant extensive and expensive repair bill. The jewelled bearings and highly polished pivots and other bearing surfaces will allow the watch to run without oil but with resultant wear.


http://www.horologicalservices.com/how_ ... be_ser.htm



So Mark Heist agrees with me then - highlights added by me. :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:24 pm 
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Roffensian wrote:
So Mark Heist agrees with me then - highlights added by me. :roll:


Dude, I said the exact same thing originally. :poke:

Perhaps not to the level of detail that you or Mark Heist have, but the same concept.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:59 pm 
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nickzac wrote:
Roffensian wrote:
So Mark Heist agrees with me then - highlights added by me. :roll:


Dude, I said the exact same thing originally. :poke:

Perhaps not to the level of detail that you or Mark Heist have, but the same concept.



'Dude' you said (as I quoted) "Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced". That's simply not true. The absence of old oils that effectively became shellac once they aged allows a watch to run, it has nothing to do with the presence of synthetic lubricants - the exact same outcome would occur if there were no lubrication presence (which is effectively what occurs after the synt-a-lube has broken down).


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:54 pm 
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Nickzac - Your previous post was without a doubt the most insightful and directly useful for my search. I think the details about the need or lack of oil post 7ish years is good to know but in the grand scheme of my purposes a relatively mute point. Accounting for all the factors you mentioned, I think you are spot on, buying a 2005 has a lot of underlying costs associated with it and I actually located a new 2011 from an AD. Now after realizing that the SO is actually 17mm thick and the Colt is 14mm, it's just going to come down to one last time trying them on and seeing if the 17mm is just too over the top and overkill for my liking. Thanks again to everyone for the help.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:56 pm 
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nickzac wrote:
[Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced (less accurately mind you) until the watch itself breaks requiring both repair and service. There are usually signs that the watch needs service, such as it becoming less accurate or not running for as long as it should (42ish hours).


Roffensian wrote:
Modern synthetic lubricants are wonderful, but they can't defeat the laws of chemistry. Beyond about 7 years those oils will have broken down and you will be running a watch with no lubricant at all. Sure the watch will run, but the friction on arbors, pivots, wheels, etc will be significantly increased causing a lot of additional servicing costs. Evidence here - http://home.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-432276/

If what you think I am saying that synthetics last forever, I wasn't. I use synthetic oil in my car. I intended that the watch itself will run without sufficient oil rather than shutting itself down, ultimately leading to a more expensive service due to the damage caused without the correct care.

Roffensian wrote:
'Dude' you said (as I quoted) "Modern synthetic lubricants will allow a watch to continue to work once it should be serviced". That's simply not true. The absence of old oils that effectively became shellac once they aged allows a watch to run, it has nothing to do with the presence of synthetic lubricants - the exact same outcome would occur if there were no lubrication presence (which is effectively what occurs after the synt-a-lube has broken down).

I said to continue to work but less efficiently. If synthetic oils thin with age and ultimately evaporate, and older oils thicken with age forcing the owner to get the watched service, wouldn't the usage (not presence or lack of, per say) of synthetic lubricants over older oils allow the watch to continue to work?

The article said "the movement will continue to run even as the synthetic oil deteriorates and evaporates (albeit less efficiently). This will continue until pivots score, often to the point of breaking and brass bearing holes wear ovoid, aggravated by dust, dirt and rust particles from leaking case gaskets and more significantly, leaking crown gaskets." So I do not see how what you are saying is different than what I said other than on a much higher level of detail. Look, you know a hell of a lot more about me than watches. I am not questioning that. But I don't see how what I said was wrong...more on a lower level of detail.. And my God you can be rather sardonic at times.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:58 pm 
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MichaelT0305 wrote:
Nickzac - Your previous post was without a doubt the most insightful and directly useful for my search. I think the details about the need or lack of oil post 7ish years is good to know but in the grand scheme of my purposes a relatively mute point. Accounting for all the factors you mentioned, I think you are spot on, buying a 2005 has a lot of underlying costs associated with it and I actually located a new 2011 from an AD. Now after realizing that the SO is actually 17mm thick and the Colt is 14mm, it's just going to come down to one last time trying them on and seeing if the 17mm is just too over the top and overkill for my liking. Thanks again to everyone for the help.


:) You can't go wrong with a 2011 from an AD. The 17mm will seem thick when you first put it on but you adapt to it really quickly. While it is a heavier watch, the bracelet helps tremendously.


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