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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:06 pm 
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Hello All,

I am in the plans of purchasing a breitling navitimer world tomorrow morning. What do I need to keep in mind? The seller has the receipt, all the documentation and box. I assume it's authentic and not stolen, but you can never be sure.

What are the steps I need to take to assure everything is safe and good?
How do I make sure I get all the documentation that comes with a breitling? What should I be looking for?
I am really new to watches, what else is there I need to know about breitling and expensive watches in general?

Thanks Everyone


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:23 pm 
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if you are worried, have him meet you at a dealer to authenticate.
should have box, instruction book, warranty book and cosc cert with it. look at caseback for evidence if it being opened, and at the date in the back of the warranty bool


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:52 pm 
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We are meeting at the dealer, so that's it? That should do? Thanks for the help :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:40 pm 
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If you have pictures you can post, it can't hurt to get the opinions of our resident expert fake spotters. They can tell you in a heartbeat if it's real or not.

The standard boxes and papers depend somewhat on the vintage of the watch, as Breitling has modified their packaging as recently as the last couple of years. The essentials include an outer cardboard box, a Bakelite display box, the instruction manual for the actual model you're purchasing, international warranty card with the original authorized dealer's name perforated into the back page, and the COSC certificate (serial number ("montre no.") on certificate should match serial number on the watch). Newer packaging may also include a soft-sided travel case that fits inside the Bakelite box. Options also include the hang tag and bezel protector, which may or may not have been included when the first owner bought the watch. If they're included, consider it a bonus; if they're not, don't sweat it. If he includes the original receipt, again consider that a bonus. Personally, I keep my receipts, in case there's ever a question of whether the money I make on a sale is a gain or a loss (of course it's a loss, but I want my receipt, in case the IRS won't take my word for it).

Speaking of the serial number, check to make sure it's intact on the caseback. The model number will be engraved in a rectangular box on the bottom center of the caseback. The serial number will be more lightly etched just below the model number. If the serial number is there, make sure it matches the serial number on the COSC certificate.

Also, DO NOT attempt to adjust the date using the quick set when the watch is showing a time between 8PM and 3AM. How will you know if it's AM or PM? You won't just by looking at it. Advance the time forward (NOT backward) past twelve. If the date changes, you'll know you're at midnight, and therefore in the "danger zone" of between 8PM and 3AM. If the date does not change, then you're at noon, and it will be safe to advance the date using the quick set. The reason for this rule is Valjoux-based movements set the date in motion between 8PM and 3AM. Adjusting it during this time can strip the gears, break the date, and cost you time and money in repairs. It's one of the easiest things for a newbie watch owner to do unwittingly. Take this one seriously. The rule is mentioned in the instruction manual, although some people think it isn't emphasized strongly enough. Consider it emphasized here.

And, of course, it's a good idea to read the manual before messing with the watch at all. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck with the purchase.

Edit: Oh yeah, if the watch is on a bracelet (as opposed to strap), and the owner removed links when sizing it to his wrist, make sure all the links are included. Replacement links get very spendy. If he put the links back into the bracelet, obviously that's OK, too.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:57 pm 
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Wow, thanks a lot for your reply. Thanks for spending the time and explaining everything to me in such detail. Greatly appreciated! :)

I will make sure I read the manual before I start messing around with the date settings, how can I assure he did not "mess around" with the date and broke anything? I guess I am being a bit cautious, but I just want to be sure.. I am buying a 2-3 year old navitimer world with black dial for around $3000. I hope that is a good deal? :)

Another worry is that I don't know how well the watch functions, I will make sure it ticks and everything is in place when I purchase it, but really, there is no guarantee it will work an hour later after I purchased it.. anything I can do or test to make sure it a working piece?

Attached is an image I got from the seller taken from him mobile phone.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:58 pm 
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vickg wrote:
Wow, thanks a lot for your reply. Thanks for spending the time and explaining everything to me in such detail. Greatly appreciated! :)

Not a problem. :)

vickg wrote:
how can I assure he did not "mess around" with the date and broke anything? I guess I am being a bit cautious, but I just want to be sure..

Tecnically, you can't know he didn't "mess around" with it. However, if the date advances at midnight when you move the time forward manually, that would indicate the date is working fine. Try advancing it several 24-hour periods and see if the date aligns properly with the window each time it advances. Don't worry if it's not exactly at midnight.

vickg wrote:
I am buying a 2-3 year old navitimer world with black dial for around $3000. I hope that is a good deal? :)

I'm no expert when it comes to Navitimer pricing. My gut says it's a little on the low side, but that doesn't really mean much. I should defer to someone else who knows more about it.

vickg wrote:
Another worry is that I don't know how well the watch functions, I will make sure it ticks and everything is in place when I purchase it, but really, there is no guarantee it will work an hour later after I purchased it.. anything I can do or test to make sure it a working piece?

That's one of the drawbacks to buying pre-owned from a private seller when the watch is no longer under factory warranty. The pricing is attractive, but you assume more risk. If you buy one that is still under warranty, then you've got that protection. Or if you buy from an established dealer who specializes in used watches and offers their own warranty, you've got that backup. But in this situation, you're pretty much going to take it on the chin if there's something wrong with the watch that only becomes apparent after the sale. Obviously check to see that the watch is running, or if it is stopped, can be started after winding it. Run the chronograph and check the reset. Advance the time forward a few 24-hour periods to make sure it feels smooth and the date advances. Check the overall appearance of the watch. Scuffs and scratches are to be expected on the bracelet, and to a certain extent on the case (although less so). Ideally, the crystal and the bezel should be pretty clean. If those show significant signs of wear - scratches, dings, etc. - then the watch might have been subject to some hard wearing. Off the top of my head, I can't think of what else you can do.

vickg wrote:
Attached is an image I got from the seller taken from him mobile phone.

The packaging would seem to be in order, although he hasn't shown the outer cardboard box. What I don't like about the picture, though, is you can't see the watch in any detail. The watch doesn't jump out as an obvious fake, but the picture doesn't do much for determining authenticity. Is that the only picture he sent you? I don't want to denigrate an honest, well-intentioned seller. However, I just sold my Chrono Superocean and I put in a good deal of effort to take very clear, detailed pictures. I would expect the same of anyone asking multiple thousands for a watch. Unfortunately, the fuzzy picture lacking detail is a common ploy used by those who are trying to sell a fake. I'm not saying that's what this guy is doing; odds are it's legit, and it's just a bad picture. But if it were me, I'd want better pictures. Has he offered you anything else that makes you feel you want to do business with this seller?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 1:27 am 
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Can't tell from that pic but the replica Navi World is easily identified by a sunken date wheel.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:20 am 
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JacksonStone wrote:
If you have pictures you can post, it can't hurt to get the opinions of our resident expert fake spotters. They can tell you in a heartbeat if it's real or not.

The standard boxes and papers depend somewhat on the vintage of the watch, as Breitling has modified their packaging as recently as the last couple of years. The essentials include an outer cardboard box, a Bakelite display box, the instruction manual for the actual model you're purchasing, international warranty card with the original authorized dealer's name perforated into the back page, and the COSC certificate (serial number ("montre no.") on certificate should match serial number on the watch). Newer packaging may also include a soft-sided travel case that fits inside the Bakelite box. Options also include the hang tag and bezel protector, which may or may not have been included when the first owner bought the watch. If they're included, consider it a bonus; if they're not, don't sweat it. If he includes the original receipt, again consider that a bonus. Personally, I keep my receipts, in case there's ever a question of whether the money I make on a sale is a gain or a loss (of course it's a loss, but I want my receipt, in case the IRS won't take my word for it).

Speaking of the serial number, check to make sure it's intact on the caseback. The model number will be engraved in a rectangular box on the bottom center of the caseback. The serial number will be more lightly etched just below the model number. If the serial number is there, make sure it matches the serial number on the COSC certificate.

Also, DO NOT attempt to adjust the date using the quick set when the watch is showing a time between 8PM and 3AM. How will you know if it's AM or PM? You won't just by looking at it. Advance the time forward (NOT backward) past twelve. If the date changes, you'll know you're at midnight, and therefore in the "danger zone" of between 8PM and 3AM. If the date does not change, then you're at noon, and it will be safe to advance the date using the quick set. The reason for this rule is Valjoux-based movements set the date in motion between 8PM and 3AM. Adjusting it during this time can strip the gears, break the date, and cost you time and money in repairs. It's one of the easiest things for a newbie watch owner to do unwittingly. Take this one seriously. The rule is mentioned in the instruction manual, although some people think it isn't emphasized strongly enough. Consider it emphasized here.

And, of course, it's a good idea to read the manual before messing with the watch at all. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck with the purchase.

Edit: Oh yeah, if the watch is on a bracelet (as opposed to strap), and the owner removed links when sizing it to his wrist, make sure all the links are included. Replacement links get very spendy. If he put the links back into the bracelet, obviously that's OK, too.



"Adjusting it during this time can strip the gears, break the date, and cost you time and money in repairs. It's one of the easiest things for a newbie watch owner to do unwittingly. Take this one seriously. The rule is mentioned in the instruction manual, although some people think it isn't emphasized strongly enough. Consider it emphasized here."


How can I tell if the seller has done this by mistake? Anyway I can make sure nothing is broken?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:21 am 
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I am assured it's real since I am doing the deal at the dealer. My only concern now is if it's a working watch. I got a bit scared of the "changing date" thing, that he might have broken some internal things by not following the instructions.. am I being to paranoid? :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:37 am 
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Wind the date through a full month (outside the danger zone) and if it changes consistently and the date is centred then you should be fine.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 10:58 am 
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vickg wrote:
I am assured it's real since I am doing the deal at the dealer. My only concern now is if it's a working watch. I got a bit scared of the "changing date" thing, that he might have broken some internal things by not following the instructions.. am I being to paranoid? :)



I think with your concerns and all else considered you would be wise to consider buying a new one. You will know it works, is not "messed around with" and also have a warranty to fall back on.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 6:28 pm 
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vickg wrote:
How can I tell if the seller has done this by mistake? Anyway I can make sure nothing is broken?

The real question isn't whether the seller has done this by mistake. The question is, if he did, did he break the date? It's not a for sure thing that if you adjust the date in the danger zone, you're going to bust it; it's just a distinct possibility you will. I accidentally did it twice on my old Evo, and I got lucky that I never damaged it. So, the proof of the pudding is in the eating of it - if the date works, that's all that counts. Roff gave you a good way to figure out if it is working properly. If it passes that test, I wouldn't worry about it.

I think pspinc2003 brings up a good point, though: you clearly are apprehensive about buying pre-owned. It's not for everybody, and it may not be for you. Buying new might be a better option. Or, it could be that if you see this deal through and don't get burned, you'll realize you didn't need to worry as much as you did, and the next time won't be so bad. It's really a personal choice.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:06 pm 
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Thank you everyone, I got all my quesions answered, true gentlemens in this forum.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:28 pm 
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vickg wrote:
Thank you everyone, I got all my quesions answered, true gentlemens in this forum.

Did you end up buying the watch? The deal was set to go down on Tuesday, wasn't it? How did it go?


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