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I was just thinking recently that a number of us (myself most definitely included) have given Breitling quite a hard time recently in light of the vast majority of their new releases. Many of us think they've trampled all over their once proud heritage with boots made of red rubber and DLC! However, it wasn't (and still isn't) all that bad.

So with that in mind I thought it was about time to celebrate some of the finest pieces Breitling have ever made, and to that end I've put together what I consider to be the top ten Breitling watches from the modern era (so don't expect to see an 806 in here!). I know not everyone will agree with my choices, but I just fancied sharing some of the pieces that made me love, and continue to make me love, the Breitling brand (despite all the recent coloured rubber bezels!).


10. Cosmonaute (Display back)

At number 10 I’ve put the display back Cosmonaute from 1995. While it’s quite a small watch by Breitling’s standards at “only” 41.5mm, the display back showing off the fantastic manual wind Lemania based B12 more than makes up for it. The typical 24 hour display sets the Cosmo apart from the rest of the Navitimer range, and the display back sets this particular model apart from the other Cosmos. This was a special edition (as opposed to a limited edition) which means it was only made for a limited period of time, but wasn’t a numbered edition. This is an undeniably handsome piece, and one that I’ve never personally owned, but it makes my personal top ten modern Breitling watches of all time.





9. Superocean Steelfish

At number 9, I put the Superocean Steelfish. Some of you may think this is an odd choice as it’s one of the cheaper models and certainly not limited in any way! However, in terms of what it’s designed for, it’s an absolute triumph in my opinion. The B17 movement is based on the solid workhorse that is the ETA 2824, meaning it’s smooth (enough) reliable and properly serviced will keep ticking away for years on end. It also has a hugely competent water resistance rating, while being housed in a case that is extremely nicely finished for a tool diver’s watch. Additionally the dial is workmanlike enough to be true to it’s diving roots, while also being dressy enough to not look out of place with a suit. It’s an extremely versatile watch – so much so in fact that I’ve owned three, with my favourite being the black dial version shown here. In my opinion if it had an in-house movement this would be a challenger for Rolex’s Submariner crown as the consummate diver.




8. Navitimer World

At 8 I’ve placed the Navitimer World for pretty much no other reason than it brought the classic Navitimer design kicking and screaming into the 21st century. The B24 movement is again ETA based with a GMT module on top, which again sets it apart from the rest of the Navitimer range. However the real unique selling point for the Navitimer World is its size. At 46mm its one of the largest Navitimers ever made and when coupled with the 24mm Navitimer bracelet, it’s an impressive piece of kit. I’ve owned two of these bad-boys, and in my opinion the best colour combination is the silver dial on the bracelet as shown here.




7. Crosswind

Number 7 sees a classic from the late ‘90’s / early 2000’s. The Crosswind is one of my all time favourite designs, and just edges out the Chronomat Evo in terms of B13 powered Windriders. The dial is work of art on these models with every hand and every roman numeral lumed. The bezel is considerably thinner than some of today’s offerings, and all the more classy for it in my opinion. My all-time favourite version is the two tone steel/rose gold version with the blue dial and I remember drooling over that particular version in the Chronolog for days on end, but sadly I never ended up owning it. To this day I’ve never owned a Crosswind.




6. Bentley Le Mans

At number 6 is a watch that I've owned and since regret selling – the Bentley Le Mans. This was a limited edition piece of 1000 pieces that came in four dial options – black, white, blue and copper. I owned the blue dial version (pictured), but if it had been the black dial version I’d probably still own it today. The great thing about this watch is that there’s so much more to it than most “limited editions”. Most LE’s are no more than either a logo on the dial or maybe a couple of different colour hands. However the Le Mans sported a movement, dial, bezel and caseback that wasn’t found on any other Bentley ; the Le Mans was the first to use the machine-turned bezel that eventually ended up on the Motors T, but retained the polished finish of the standard Motors. All in all this is an incredibly well thought out watch – even the 24 hour movement is fitting due to the 24 hour Le Mans race connection. A beautiful and unique watch that I still miss from time to time.




5. Navitimer Olympus

At number 5 I’ve placed the Navitimer Olympus...... most definitely NOT to be confused with the Montbrillant Olympus. For this I’m going to crib Breitling’s words and they say it all as far as I’m concerned – “Constituting Breitlings's flagship product, the Navitimer line symbolizes the brand's mastery in the field of mechanical chronographs. Among these instruments with a wealth of tradition, originality and exclusive features, the Navitimer Olympus represents the world of watch Complications. Its mechanism composed of around 250 parts enables measurement of short times and simultaneous display of the date, day, month and moon phases. This sophisticated movement, chronometer-certified Caliber 19, requires adjustment only once every leap year. The generously sized Navitimer Olympus allows perfect read-off of the plentiful data provided by the dial and its nine hands. The caseback carries a conversion scale for the weights and measures used in aviation”. At 43mm it’s a great size, and looks great in both the white dial version (that I’ve owned) and the black dial version that Stefan Tapp has recently picked up. However, if I had to choose I’d say the black dial would just edge it.




4. Chronomat 01 LE / "Flying Fish"

At 4 I’m going to court controversy and place the Chronomat 01 LE in equal place with the Chronomat 01 “Flying Fish”. As an extremely vocal opponent of the Chronomat 01 when it came out (primarily because of “that” bezel), I’ve actually grown to quite like it in standard guise over the last couple of years. Last year I had a standard Chronomat 01 in my possession for a few weeks on behalf of a mate, and during that time I was able to scrutinise it some detail. The watch is immaculately constructed : every detail, every font (and there’s a lot of them!) are all perfectly executed. Under a x5 loupe I found the dial to be perfect, literally perfect, which is something you only tend to expect on watches many times the price. That said, the polished finish of the standard models really highlights “that” bezel font, so I avoided buying one. However, when the LE came out (and now the Flying Fish) with an all brushed finish, the watch leaps forward to the point of being (IMO) one of the finest watches Breitling have made. The shaved rider tabs bring the classic Breitling bezel right up to date. In fact after several minutes looking at one, the Chronomat 01 really makes the older model’s rider tabs look a bit out of date. Obviously I couldn’t let this one go without at least mentioning the movement. In my opinion, the B01 is probably the most important thing Breitling have done in the last 20 or more years. Sure there may be the odd QA issue at the moment, but it’s a couple of years old compared to ETA’s workhorses that are 40 to 50 years old : we have to expect a few issues to be ironed out. Simply put, the B01 raises Breitling up from the mire of ETA dependent brands out there like Tag, Ball, Hamilton, etc. It keeps them independent and opens the door for them to reach the higher watchmaking echelons if they so desire.




3. Transocean 01

At number 3 I’ve placed the new Transocean 01. Simply put, I think this one of the most mature and classy watches that Breitling have made in the last 20 or 30 years. That plus the in-house movement and a display back puts this watch right up at the top of the list. To my mind it’s the perfect blend of retro and modern, let down only by the fact that the only bracelet option is the frankly horrible Breitling mesh. However both the LE and the non-LE silver with black subdial versions look so damn good on straps that I can overlook the lack of a bracelet option. Just a beautiful, stylish, classy work of art, that almost makes you forget about coloured red rubber bezels!

(Sorry the picture is of it on the horrid mesh!)



2. Chrono Avenger Rattrapante

As runner-up in my all time list, I’ve placed one of the most rare Breitlings out there – so rare in fact that I’ve NEVER seen one for sale : the Chrono Avenger Rattrapante. This is not to be confused with the Chrono Avenger Sixty Nine which, while also being a rattrapante, was powered by a quartz/mechanical hybrid movement based on the Piguet MecaQuartz 1271. The Chrono Avenger Rattrapante is a fully mechanical rattrapante and was limited to just 25 pieces. The B34 movement is based on a Piguet Rattrapante 1186 and features a solid gold rotor that is visible through the display back. Also unique on this watch is the case material : stainless steel case with a white gold bezel, which means a model number of G34360 – the G prefix again being unique in Breitling watches. In my opinion this is one of the most rare and yet most understated Breitling’s ever made….. and that makes it hugely desirable. Just a shame I’ve never even seen one for sale, much less owned one!




1. Navitimer 01

And in the number 1 spot I’ve placed the non-LE Navitimer 01. I’m taking a bit of a leap of faith here as I’ve not seen one in person, but I’ve seen and handled the LE version recently on the bracelet, and after thinking it was too small when I first handled one on a strap, I think it works fantastically well on the bracelet. The only thing that lets the LE down in my opinion is the white date wheel, so the non-LE with the black date wheel and gold wings looks absolutely superb in my opinion. The Navitimer is without a doubt, the most iconic Breitling model of all time, and the B01 movement finally gives it an engine that befits it’s modern status as the flagship Breitling model. Classic, stylish, handsome, manly, both retro and modern – this truly is (IMHO) the finest Breitling watch from the modern era.

(This picture should be of it on the bracelet, but never mind)



So let's hear it for Breitling! It's not all rubber bezels and DLC you know! Here's hoping for more like the above..... and soon.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Great post, I agree with some and disagree with some. In my opinion the top 5 Breitlings are:

5 - Chrono Superocean, white dial on bracelet or brown croc
4 - Crosswind, black dial w/roman numerals
3 - Blackbird, black dial on brushed bracelet
2 - Navitimer Olympus, every dial combo!! (I'm trying to get another one)
1 - Bentley Mark VI complication 19, white or blue dial on bracelet

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"I don't own any watches, I just lease them"

Interesting Driver8, I would have sworn that your #2 would be #1 and I'm still waiting for one to come up so that we can roll our sleeves up and have a battle royale over it

I would make a few changes to the list, but I can't argue hugely with the ones that you have included. It's interesting that there are 3 models introduced in the last 6 months in your top ten list - I guess they are still doing something right. I would exclude the Chronomat (especially as the 1984 through Evo version didn't make the list), but the other two would be on my top 10 list as well I think.

I like your choices, but I would have squeezed in the Super Avenger somewhere.

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An ever changing collection.....

Great list but you really need a Blackbird in there somewhere.

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"Leave the gun, take the cannoli."

interesting list D8. I dont have a bunch of objections but the Evo should have made the list as well as the Blackbird and (biased opinion) I prefer the Navi 01 LE. The main reason is that the non-LE Navi doesn't have enough visual difference than the models of the past, that I would place an 806 before the non-LE Navi. Now the Navi 01 LE does have visual differences (red date w/ white wheel, silvered dial, display back....) Thats why I rank it higher.

And for cryin out loud, you can't have serious Breitling list that includes ANY model with a Buck Rogers bezel!

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Breitling Steelfish(black)
Breitling Steelfish(silver)
Panerai PAM 312
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom
Steinhart BreitlingSource LE #5/15

I think you have a great cross section of winners here, but how could you overlook the Blackbird?

Summed it all up brilliantly I'd say! Great read Driver8.

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Breitling navitimer super constellation LE
Omega Ploprof 1200m
Bremont supermarine
Rolex milgauss GV
Olivant and Botsford 40mm Gold edition

great post D8. i can almost agree with the whole list. but im still not a convert when it comes to that new bezel on the chronomat.

Nice compilation and appreciate the insight. Goes without saying I have some differing opinions.

However, I have never lived with the Buck Rogers bezel as you have, so can't dispute your experience that it grows on you.

And I must agree the Transocean is a very nice watch, but the price of the LE and using the mesh bracelet sees a bit of a cop out. But the white dial is beautiful in person and would be stunning on a Breitling Gold Croco.

And I have to admit the Flying Fish is at least interesting.

Please PM me if you ever see a Chrono Avenger Rattrapante for sale. It can be a 3 way bidding war.

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SHARKMAN

Very nice post...

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BC

excellant post thanks for sharing. I'd mostly agree but i'd bump up the SF and pop in the Chronomat, but then there's the blackbird, and the SOC. . . . Again great post and thanks for taking the time to compile it.

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Breanach78

A Few Breitlings.

Excellent post D8! I am glad somebody posted something like this given the recent sentiment. As of late I've been trying all sorts of time pieces from different brands and, as far as I am concerned, none measure up to how well Breitling aligns itself to me personally. I've been trying every IWC under the sun and I am not crazy about any of them. They are very nice and I will eventually add an IWC to my collection but I haven't felt that feeling as I do with Breitlings. Breitling still appeals to me, a lot. My next one will be a Breitling again! The discontinued generation, but a Breitling nevertheless. Going to the AD tomorrow

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Alex
Breitling - Navitimer
Breitling - SuperOcean
Breitling - Chrono SuperOcean

I thought there'd be a few disagreements with at least a couple of my choices!

@Roff - I thought long and hard about whether to place the CA Ratty above the Navi 01, but ultimately it came down to a few points. Yes the CA Ratty is very rare and unique in a number of ways, but rarity and uniqueness isn't quite enough in my book. The CA, while certainly being a classic Breitling, isn't THE iconic Breitling. To most people with any knowledge of Breitling at all, the names "Navitimer" and "Chronomat" are the icons. Obviously while the Chronomat name has carried on over the years, the watches that have born that name have changed hugely. In contrast, the Navi doesn't look markedly different to the Navi of the '60's : it was, and still is, the iconic Breitling in a way that no CA can be. Also, again while it's got a very interesting movement, the CA Ratty's movement isn't of Breitling's making. In contrast the Navi 01, is ALL Breitling. Breitling's look, Breitling's character, and Breitling's movement. That's why it's number one for me.

In terms of 3 of my top ten being "new models", then I DO think it's a sign that Breitling are doing something right in my eyes : it's just that they are ALSO doing a hell of a lot wrong at the same time! It amazes me how thay can make something as beautiful and classy as the Navi 01 or the TO 01, and at the same time make a CM49 and a Skyracer both with red rubber bezels!

@Sharky & Roff - Up against you two, I think the only way I'd have any chance of winning a CA Ratty in an open bidding war, would be if neither of you knew about it, and simultaneously had no internet connection for a week!

@ the Blackbird fans - While I think the current brushed model is a truly great watch, the BB has always been one watch that looks better in pictures than it does in real life to me. I don't know why, but that's just how it is. That said it would make my "extended list" at number 12! (Number 11 revealed in a minute! )

@ the Chronomat Evo fans - it was a close run thing for me between the Chronomat Evo and the Crosswind, but ultimately the extra attention to detail on the Crosswind's dial and the slightly more refinded look, just edged it. I was always disappointed that the Evo never had the fully lumed subdial hands and numerals of the Crosswind. I also think that the roman numerals on the Crosswind have never looked better on any watch, so the Crosswind just WORKS that little bit more in my eyes that the Chronomat Evo. (I even like the Crosswind's name as it evokes feelings of aviation and all that stuff that Breitling is famous for!) The Evo would be my number 13.

@ the Chronomat 01 dislikers - I knew this would be controversial! Part of the reason for it's position has a lot to do with WHAT it is more than anything else. What it is IMO, is a watershed moment for Breitling, when they joined the ranks of true manufacturers. No other watch will ever have the accolade of being the first Breitling to house an in-house movement. Additionally the finish on the dial is so good, that it really elevates it above the other Chronomats that have gone before. Yes the bezel is polarising, and I will admit that if it wasn't for that it would've been a serious contender for the top spot. However the brushed versions tone down the bezel (and highlight the polished rider tabs) to such an extent that you almost don't notice it. In my book the BRUSHED models are worthy top fivers.

And lastly, what would've been my number 11? The 44mm "proper" Chrono-matic from 2006 to 2008 - http://www.breitlingsource.com/watch_de ... er_81.html - "proper" because it has the left hand crown, and a look that really does look like an evolution of the classic 1806 Chrono-matics of the late '60's early '70's.

So there we are - my top ten...., that's become my top thirteen!

Anyway, thanks for reading, and thanks for all the kind words guys - I appreciate it.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

That was a great read Mr Driver. I really enjoyed it and it was good to be reminded why we are all fans of Breitling.

You make very strong arguements for each of your chosen top 10.

I am pleased to see that I have owned a few of them.

My main changes to your top 10 would be that I would always include the original Titanium SeaWolf. For me it totally epitomises what a tool watch should be and that 3000m water resistance should never be underestimated. It is the right size, very comfortable to wear, was reasonably priced and very cool. A future classic in my opinion.

I would also argue with you about your number 1 choice. The Navitimer 01 should always have an exhibition case back. I agree with you about the date window on the LE but the lack of sapphire caseback on the standard model far outweighs this in my opinion. I love the Navitimer 01 so much I have had Andrew Michaels put one of their examples to one side for me and I am currently in the process of formulating a plan so I can pay for it.

I am totally with you on the BlackBird though. As nice as it certainly is there are so many Breitlings costing much less that I would buy first.

BTW, I have never seen the incredibly rare and coveted Avenger Chrono Rattrapante but I do know that Andrew Michaels has an incredibly rare and covetable NOS Navitimer Rattrapante, which was also limited to an amazing 25 examples. If any one is interested let me know and I'll forward pictures.

Thanks again Mr Driver. Nice work.

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