Pocket Watches

akguppy · **Posted:** Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:28 pm

Ok, we all seem to be wristies, but I'm kind of looking a picking up a pocket watch. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Roffensian · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:48 am

akguppy wrote:

Ok, we all seem to be wristies, but I'm kind of looking a picking up a pocket watch. Any thoughts or recommendations?

That's a pretty open question. Swiss or American? Time only, chrono, complex complications? Hunter, half hunter or open?

akguppy · **Posted:** Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:14 pm

I think American, railroad theme, just time with cover. Case metal other than gold. I've been looking at Elgin, Hamilton, and Waltham. Are the different brands kind of like Ford vs. Chevy, or is one more exclusive? Prices are all over the scale from $5 to $1000's. I'm not sure of the size designations or what it means when they're marked as "adjusted." And "key wind" does that require a separate key to wind?

Roffensian · **Posted:** Fri Sep 20, 2013 2:38 am

OK, so from a general standpoint key wind / key set is the oldest - up to about 1870 or so, and yes you need a key for it - but you can pick a full set (12 sizes) up for $20 or so. After that is lever set which didn't last for too long, and then we get to the more 'normal' stem set / pendant set. which is wound and set via the crown.

If you want a cover on the face then that's a hunter case (if the cover is full) or half hunter (if there is a hole in the cover so that you can see the time when the cover is in place). When new you would buy a watch and case separately which is why there is so much variety - the crown is at 3 o'clock on a hunter / half hunter watch rather than 12 o'clock on an open, but other than that things can be all over the place.

For a man's pocket watch size 16 or 18 is normal - especially if you want railroad, smaller 12 and 14 is possible, smaller than that is more of a ladies size - 20 is less common and is obviously bigger.

Any of the American manufacturers are going to be comparable quality, but they all have different grades with different names. As a general rule the higher the number of jewels the better quality the movement, but there are exceptions. Buy something like the price guide to watches for $15 or so and it will give you all the information on grades for the different brands as well as serial numbers per year. Adjusted is generally speaking a better quality movement than unadjusted.

You can get into a decent American hunter watch in a base metal movement for $250 or so, gold will run closer to $1,000 and up - more for larger pieces and if the case is particularly intricate. Bear in mind that the highest quality movements were originally reserved for gold cases, although many have been recased because the gold has been melted down.

The last watch that I would ever sell is a pocket watch, but it's a little bit special - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9789

Wildblue · **Posted:** Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:52 am

I'll say it again. My all-time favorite Breitling.

akguppy · **Posted:** Mon Sep 23, 2013 10:13 pm

Thanks Roff, that gives me some direction to go on.

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