Little did the visitors to the 1954 Basel Fair Rolex stand realise that they were seeing what was to become the most revered, copied, admired, long-lived, desirable and sought after Divers watch design of all time.
Along with the Turnograph and Explorer, that were also introduced by Rolex that year, Rolex had introduced a watch for the growing community of professional and recreational divers.
This classic tool watch was, of course, the Submariner.
Rolex called it “The Diver’s Friend”, and you can see why: It had great legibility with luminous material applied to both the hour markers and the hands (incidentally, the first Submariner had simple parallel hands. “Mercedes” hands were introduced in 1955), a rotating bezel (bi-directional on the original models all the way up to 1989), a big screw-down crown (the crown protectors we are all familiar with now were not introduced until 1959) and a water resistancy rated to 100m/330ft water resistance (increased to 200m/660ft in1955).
I’m sure Rolex had no concerns over rating the water resistancy so high (low?). Just six months previously Rolex had strapped a prototype divers watch to the outside of Professor Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe when it was submerged to a record breaking 3,150 meters below the sea. This subjected the watch to the torturous pressure of two tons per square inch. As you can see below the prototype’s design could never become a catalogue item but much was learned by Rolex during this experiment that they could transpose to the Submariner.
In 1960 a similar, but much more daring, experiment was conducted by both Jaques Piccard and Rolex when the latter strapped their prototype diver’s watch to the outside of the former’s bathyscaphe. Jaques Piccard proceeded to set a record that still stands today when he dove to the bottom of the Marianas Trench which is 10,916m below the sea. The Rolex prototype was working perfectly after the dive, even though it had been subjected to the brutal pressure of seven tons per square inch.
The Submariner highlighted in this review is my 5513 model from 1964. I had been searching for a nice example of an early Submariner when I was fortunate to come across this perfect example. Having just received a full service from a Rolex trained technician it was in absolutely mint condition and was in perfect working order with an astonishing accuracy of about 0.2 seconds per day. Truly remarkable from a 46 year movement and a great testament to Rolex’s workmanship.
Like many young, and influential, boy I lusted after a Submariner from a very early age. The usual reason being that James Bond wore one in all of the early films, including the first two Roger Moore films. It was most prominently shown in “Live and Let Die” when the internal magnet was used to great effect (unzipping the dress of Bond’s latest female conquest) and the rotating bezel was automatically spun to a high revolution to cut through a rope, bandsaw style. My first ever high end watch was a non-Date Submariner which I loved but I always had aspirations for a model that reflected the ones I had lusted after on the big screen as a child. Sean Connery wore a variation on the 6538 model. Due to Rolex’s quality of build and material these are readily available in good working order. However, they were way out of my price range: About £8K in working order. Double that if it has the original paperwork. Amazingly, the first ever Submariners were £66 in 1953.
So, I happily opted for the model, previously described, that was worn by Roger Moore and George Lazenby, the 5513. A great compromise.
The 5513 was introduced in 1959. It was the first model with the redesigned case that incorporated guards for the crown. Other changes from the previous model included the Triplock crown, white script on the dial (instead of gold previously), the triangle at 12 O’clock in white (instead of the outgoing red) and a bezel which had individual markers for the first fifteen minutes (the most important minutes for a diver).
The 5513 was one of two models available at that time. The other was the 5512. Exactly the same watch except it had a chronometer rated movement. The 5513 is one of the best selling Submariners. It was available for almost thirty years. It was also the base watch for all the military Submariners that were issued, including models for the Royal Navy and Royal Marines. I say “base watch” because the military watches had some significant differences, as per the request of the military. A large “T” in a circle was printed below the centre of the dial. This signified that the luminous material used was Tritium. On the standard models this is highlighted by the small “T” either side of the “Swiss Made” script. The hands were changed to sword style hands. Minute markers were added for the full circumference of the bezel. Finally, the spring bars were solid and were welded into the case. As a result only a NATO-style strap could be worn. These modified models fetch scary money at auction. Just recently the hammer came down at £56K on a mint condition example.
Although it is a utilitarian tool watch the 5513 is also an extremely good looking timepiece as well, in my opinion. I think this is the main reason that the Submariner has been the most popular Diver’s watch for so many years.
I just love the domed plexiglass that is used on these vintage models.
It gives the dial such a warmth that is lost with the use of sapphire glass, first used on Submariners in 1986 on the model 16800. The Submariner remained pretty much unchanged from this model until the introduction of the new Submariner with the wider case, “Maxi” dial and ceramic bezel. There is the issue, of course, of the plexiglass being much more vulnerable to scratches and marks. However, these can easily be removed with products such as Brasso or Polywatch, etc.
I also love the patina on the hour markers. A result of years and years of slight moisture ingress. Something undesirable creates something desirable. It is rare to find a vintage Submariner with such great patina with the rest of the watch looking like brand new.
The bracelet may or may not be the original. I’m not sure I’ll ever find out. 1964 was a transition period for the 5513 from the original link bracelet to the one shown here. I prefer this one because it both looks and feels stronger. As befits a tool watch.
I suppose the Submariner is considered fairly small by today’s standards of diver watches. However, I think the proportions of the watch are perfect and it fits my wrist comfortably.
I consider myself very lucky to have found this perfect example of a watch that I had always aspired to owning. My only criticism is that it is almost too perfect. This leaves me with the psychological mental block of not wanting to wear it in any situation where it may get damaged. I have no such considerations with my modern divers watches. Also, I have heard worrying stories that the domed glass’s are prone to having micro-cracks at the point where they are clamped. This is a weak area for moisture ingress. So I find myself feeling like a hypocrite as I have one of the greatest and most sought after divers watches ever and I refuse to get it intentionally wet. However, I console myself by believing that my over exuberant, almost obsessive, care that I bestow on this wonderful timepiece will allow it to be perfect in yet another 46 years.
As always, comments and constructive criticism about the review and the watch are always welcome.
I've owned two and still have a 16613 that i bought new in 1999, wish i would have kept the all stainless sub date i had from 1990 thru 1999 but like a dummy i let it go! 
Thanks for taking the time!
