Hmmmmmmm, well I can GUARANTEE that this is going to polarise opinions like no other watch!
And as it's a Breitling forum (and this new watch of mine is essential the antithesis of what a Breitling is), I'm thoroughly expecting the "haters" to outweigh the "lovers" by some margin.
So what is it?????
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well.....
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It's a Doxa SUB 5000T Seaconqueror!
Yep, it's the horological equivalent of Marmite - you either love them, or you hate them!
Over the last 9 months or so I've really got into the concept of "re-imaginings" of classic watches. For example, my IWC Big Pilot is a modern take on the classic pilot's watch from the 1940's. So recently I've been looking for something new that I can wear pretty much everyday and not worry about. Not a "beater" as such but something I can just put on and forget about...... which is NOT something I tend to do with my Big Pilot! In short, I was after something hardy so a dive watch fitted the bill very nicely. For a little while I was seriously considering a Seawolf, but then I remembered Doxa. I first came across the brand a year or so ago and didn't look into them too much, but after a bit more research recently I became pretty smitten by the design, which is essentially unchanged since the late 60's.
Most Doxas are very "tool watch" in their appearance, which either black, white or orange hands, and painted hour markers, and I wasn't sure if I wanted something quite that "tool", especially considering my Breitling collection! But then I found the SUB 5000T..... and all that changed.
Basically, the SUB 5000T is the most modern watch (in terms of technical ability) that Doxa have ever made, while still retaining that cool late 60's (i.e. Sean Connery era Bond) look. It's 45mm in diameter, water resistant to 5000 feet (1524m), has a helium release valve, and has the very latest Doxa bracelet design which is kind of a cross between a Breitling in terms of the body of the bracelet (i.e. all the parts of the links are separate and screwed together) and an Omega Seamaster in terms of the clasp (i.e. push-button release) but with the added bonus of a very elegant and very clever ratchet system for the diver's extension section. It's also interesting that the bracelet is screwed to the case through the lugs like a Panerai. This watch is very toughly built.
So it's a decent size (45mm across and 15mm high)...... and it's a heavy piece too. 219g on the bracelet. 3mm thick AR coated sapphire crystal completes the package. The crystal is also slightly domed for that vintage feel as well.
However for all it's vintage appeal, a lot of Doxa-philes dislike a number of things about it. Firstly the centred words on the dial goes against the vintage look of most Doxas. Secondly, the SUB 5000T uses welded polished steel hour markers and polished hands which a lot of Doxa fans say make it look to bling!
(Obviously those guys don't own Breitlings! ) However, for me it looks superb. Just the right mix of retro, "tool", and shininess. In terms of the shiny bits, it's kind of like a Steelfish in as much as most of it is brushed, but a few of the vertical surfaces are brushed. 2 out of the 5 bars of the bracelet are also polished, while the other 3 are brushed. Again, just the right mix IMHO. The bracelet and case are both of really super quality - a little more tool than most Breitlings, but then that's kind of the idea.Another thing about this watch is the lume. It's fantastic, and probably not far off Omega standard. Apparently part of the reason they used applied metal hour markers is to provide a "well" for the lume material so they could apply more. And it works..... superbly.
In terms of movement it's running the ETA 2892-A2 which is probably the finest non-complication ETA movement out there. Doxa decorate it, but don't appear to modify it, but then when you read a few reviews about the 2892 you can understand why - http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta2892.html On the second page of this review, the guy goes on to say that while the Rolex 3035 and 3135 match it toe to toe, no movement he has come across can exceed it for reliability or accuracy. High praise from a watchmaker........... and something that I hope will turn out to be true!!
OK, so I freely admit that my real passion these days is for in-house movements and that isn't going to change for my "big ticket" timepieces, but for what this watch is (and for what I paid for it!), and for what I'll use it for (i.e. just throw it on and forget about it), I am more than happy to have this little ETA based engine on my wrist.
So there it is. A little different and certainly not for everyone, but for those of you who've never seen a Doxa before, hopefully this has been interesting.
Here's a few more of my characteristically poor photos for your "enjoyment"!
. Certainly some retro styling in that case, somehow it puts me in mind of some old Speedmasters.
What's the Lume like? Any pictures?
