Hello,
I have just achieved a lifetime dream - buying a Vacheron watch. The Patek was bought first - just like every millionaire buys a new Mercedes. Once one has enjoyed the Mercedes for a while you can focus on other brands which sing loudly to the owner but not so loudly to the public. VC is very similar to this in my opinion.
A good friend once said to me that you can tell a true watch collector by the presence of a VC in the collection.
I have been looking for a playmate for my Patek Philippe 5107. I wanted something completely opposite to my Patek in a dress watch. I mean by this, the following:-
1) small size - as opposed to the "grande Talle" ego of the Patek
2) yellow gold - as opposed to the descrete white gold patek
3) vintage - as opposed to the modern size and style of the 5107 patek
4) fancy bezel - as opposed to the smoove bezel on the Patek
5) subseconds at 6 - as opposed to the patek's 3rd hand
I found a vintage 6405 Vacheron from an Australian watch dealer.
The Vacheron needed a full service and polish - NEW pics to be posted once it returns.
I love the 1960s style of the piece. The aim was to make a small watch - no dinner plate specials please!
I think I now have the best of both worlds.
I have been interested in watches ever since I was a teenager. I am now in my 40s.
I have done the Rolex thing for a long while. I have also had many fantastic dress watches. I also love sports watches however dress watches is my secret love.
Dress watches are what drew me to the VC name. VC was famous for making the thinniest and most elegant watches in the 50s, 60s and 70s. Somehow with the advent of quartz this marvel was lost, as quartz could be very thin quite easily.
I have always been a dress watch fan and my taste in timepieces shows this. I have had some amazing pieces over the years - selling only to buy the next piece.
A list of the most wonderful dress watches I have owned is as follows:-
Patek 3919 Calatrava - my first dress watch. purchased in 2001
Cartier Tonneau - my first 18K Cartier
Cartier 18K Louis Cartier Tank mechanical
JLC Reverso 18K Classique
Patek Philippe 3944 Calatrava (quartz)
Rolex - I have owned the full gamet of Day Dates and DateJusts but I do not believe these are dress watches.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5107 in White Gold (I still own this piece)
I have owned my Patek 5107 since October 2009 however I still wanted a traditional dress watch. I felt the Patek 5107 defied the dress watch conventions. I still love my Patek however I fault it had the following flaws if it was to be considered the ultimate dress watch:-
1) The size is too big - 37mm
2) The crown guards are more sports watch instead of a dress watch
3) The movement is too fancy for a dress watch - I believe a true dress watch needs a manual mechanical movement with a date complication
4) The bezel on the Patek was too plain
5) I missed the sub-seconds at the 6 position
6) I missed the thin lugs of a true dress watch
7) The crown on the Patek is far too big

Display backs are far to fancy for a true dress watch
9) I wanted a descrete dial
10) I wanted something I miss my grandfather passed down to me! Unfortunately my grandfather did not have a VC.
For these reasons I defied the modern trend for dinner plate size watches.
In my opinion AP has gone too far with fashion in making huge AP RO pieces. Patek Philippe is a great watch but a true dress watch is made by a more discrete maker. Lange is German so that ruled that out - my grandfather was a German POW - so that brand is off the list! Breguet is the only other choice however I was drawn to the 60s VC history with making thin watches.


