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Early One ButtonChrono
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Author:  vintage [ Mon May 10, 2010 8:59 am ]
Post subject:  Early One ButtonChrono
Just received this one today from France. According to the Richter book it dates to around 1936. There is some rear cover deterioration that I've seen before on WW1 aviator watches which I associate with being on a Bund style strap which can trap moisture next to the watch. The dial also shows wear but still retains it's vintage look and has the coolest copper ring inlaid. The watch was serviced and is running great. Appears to have the original hands still. Just threw it on a Bund pad I had laying around but will need to find a nice vintage leather Bund strap for it. The case is 30mm in diameter and takes a 16mm strap. Definitely the oldest Breitling I've owned. I like it. :D

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Author:  Roffensian [ Mon May 10, 2010 9:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Now that I do like!
Author:  Yaffle [ Mon May 10, 2010 10:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Very cool.

Here's the watch in the 1946 catalogue.
Interestingly the use the same ref for watches in different cases and with
different size movements.
Attachment:
BreitlingCat1946_1 copy.jpg

Here's one I've had for a couple of years. Looks like a doppleganger even down
to the gold coloured font and it also has the brass ring inlaid. It is big at around 40mm.
Attachment:
IMG_0247 copy.jpg
Attachment:
IMG_0250 copy.jpg
Author:  Bill in Sacramento [ Mon May 10, 2010 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Nice watches, Paul and Yaffle.
Paul, I think Richter's date for the catalog's is off by a few years and the Breitling: The Book clears up at least one of them. Richter's 1932 catalog is shown as a 1937 catalog in the The Book, and I think Richter's 1936 one is probably 1939 [although I can't remember how I pinned that down. Basel Fair ad, I think.]

I'm curious how both watches are otherwise marked. Is there a signature on the case and movement?
Author:  vintage [ Tue May 11, 2010 4:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
It's hard to gauge the age based upon the serial numbers, especially since the Breitling serial number chronograph list starts at 563xxx in 1944, but I would agree it would probably be a little later and maybe in the 1938-1940 range based upon the almost identical, unmarked, chrono in the page scan below. Appears the movement is an early Venus. I measured the lugs again and it will take a 15mm strap which eliminates any Bund strap I can find. I bought a vintage Hirsch open end which might look ok or I can see if I can get a custom strap made.

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Author:  Roffensian [ Tue May 11, 2010 5:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
It's interesting that these should be so late given what Breitling patented in the interim. It's covered well in Breitling, The Book, but from memory Leon Breitling patented the split reset (moving the reset to the crown from the single pusher) in 1923 and the two button chrono in 1934. That these pieces would be produced from a 30 year old patent in the 1940s is interesting (at least to me).
Author:  Yaffle [ Tue May 11, 2010 9:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Quote:
I'm curious how both watches are otherwise marked. Is there a signature on the case and movement?


My movement is also unsigned and so is the case, I haven't found an exact match but we're thinking Landeron-Hahn.
Attachment:
Movement copy.jpg

No model number and my serial is 323xxx which would make it older than Pauls by 5000 odd pieces, so I guess within one or two years - althought Breitling's output was really up and down - so any guesses?
Attachment:
InsideBack copy.jpg

here's a better pic of the watch.
Attachment:
OneButton copy.jpg

Here's a page from an early catalogue - not sure if this one is in " breitling the book" or not? - of the dials page.
Attachment:
Dials_1 copy.jpg

I think the style of the dial seems very close.
Attachment:
DialMontage.jpg
Author:  jlee5050 [ Tue May 11, 2010 10:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
So how's it running Paul? :?:
Author:  vintage [ Tue May 11, 2010 10:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
jlee5050 wrote:
So how's it running Paul? :?:


Runs like a Swiss watch. :D Just placed an order with Banda for a custom Bund style strap ($85 delivered). Had them make me one more likely to be found in the thirties and a little rougher finished than the current models.
Author:  jlee5050 [ Tue May 11, 2010 3:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
I should've clarified it much better... :oops: :lol:

For some reason I was thinking since it's on average 30 years older than the pieces I own, might have some more issues that's all...
Author:  vintage [ Tue May 11, 2010 5:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
jlee5050 wrote:
I should've clarified it much better... :oops: :lol:

For some reason I was thinking since it's on average 30 years older than the pieces I own, might have some more issues that's all...


Just messing with ya. :) The seller in France told me it was serviced by a master watchmaker and the old Venus movement has been keeping spot on time since I received it. Pretty impressive for around 70 years old.
Author:  Yaffle [ Wed May 12, 2010 6:33 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
I came across this article in french,

http://www.invenitetfecit.com/modeles/c ... teur2.html

Translation:
http://translate.google.co.uk/translate ... %26hl%3Den

"In the 1930s there are two manufacturers of chronograph calibers within Sketches SA: Landeron and Venus"

It seems that Valjoux wasn't part of Ebauches SA until 1944.

Roff I know you have a lot of knowledge in this area, do you think it's correct that the only two chronograph manufacturers that Ebauches SA had in the Thirties was Venus and Landeron?

Also it describes "unmetered chronograph caliber", this is probably a bad google translation, does anyone know what it means?
Author:  Roffensian [ Wed May 12, 2010 6:46 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Yaffle wrote:

Roff I know you have a lot of knowledge in this area, do you think it's correct that the only two chronograph manufacturers that Ebauches SA had in the Thirties was Venus and Landeron?



Ebauches SA was officially formed in 1926 with the three largest movement manufacturers agreeing to work together - Ad. Michel, A. Schild and FHF.

By the end of 1927 there were 12 manufacturers making up Ebauches SA including Charles Hahn (the maker of Landeron movements).

By the end of 1928 it was 22 and included Venus.

By the end of 1929, there were over 30.

You get the idea - a lot more than Landeron and venus in the 30s.



In terms of unmetered - unadjusted maybe???
Author:  jlee5050 [ Wed May 12, 2010 9:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Indeed... for 70 years old... still running like that...

amazing...
Author:  Yaffle [ Thu May 13, 2010 9:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early One ButtonChrono
Quote:
You get the idea - a lot more than Landeron and venus in the 30s.


Thanks Roff, I don't think any of them were third party chronograph manufacturers,
the other manufacturers of Chrono's besides Valjoux in this period would have be inhouse, Minerva, Pierce, Longines, etc.
(unless anyone knows any others)
I'm not sure if Lemania produced for other people in the Thirties?

I was intrigued by the idea that as Ebauches SA supplied Breitling with Venus movements, it would
also mean that Breitling would have had easy access to Landeron as well. Just a thought.
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