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bnewbie
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:48 am 
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vintage wrote:
Chronomatic = automatic guys. :wink:

I'm really newb in vintage and ready to take a slap but aren't the first variations of cal 11 manual?
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Roffensian
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:39 am 
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Calibre 11 is the 1969 Heuer / Breitling automatic. They do look manual because they have a micro rotor that is generally invisible under the chronograph bridge.
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bnewbie
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:44 am 
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Knew for the micro rotor but obviously I did mix something.
Thanks.
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Roffensian
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:47 am 
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bnewbie wrote:
Knew for the micro rotor but obviously I did mix something.
Thanks.


Well you might be right - but it doesn't ring bells in my somewhat addled brain. I'll try and check.
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vintage
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:36 am 
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bnewbie wrote:
vintage wrote:
Chronomatic = automatic guys. :wink:

I'm really newb in vintage and ready to take a slap but aren't the first variations of cal 11 manual?


The only manual variation of this design is the 7740.

Paul
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Trig
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 12:08 pm 
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Forgot to ask, how do I remove the back?
I presume there is a 'special' tool thats drops into the indentations on the back, where can I get one of these?

Image

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bnewbie
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:28 pm 
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vintage wrote:
bnewbie wrote:
vintage wrote:
Chronomatic = automatic guys. :wink:

I'm really newb in vintage and ready to take a slap but aren't the first variations of cal 11 manual?


The only manual variation of this design is the 7740.

Paul

Thanks Paul.
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Roffensian
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 3:38 pm 
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Trig wrote:
Forgot to ask, how do I remove the back?
I presume there is a 'special' tool thats drops into the indentations on the back, where can I get one of these?

Image



Correct, but do you really need to open it and let all that nasty dirt in there??????

If it's just a one off for some pictures your AD / watchmaker should be happy to help, if you are going to be doing your own servicing / adjusting then you can find them on eBay all the time.
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Trig
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:18 am 
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Roffensian wrote:
Trig wrote:
Image


Here it is.

Need to know a few things about it.

I guess it needs to be 'wound' as it's not 'automatic', but how long will it last after a full winding?
I guess the subdials are minutes and hours for the chrono, yes?
Is there a 'quick' way to set the date instead of winding it forward?

What do the numbers etc around the outside of the dial mean? (UPH, Base Pulsations etc)

Can anyone suggest a 'dealer' where I can get it inspected, authourised and valued in the UK, pref Midlands area?

TIA.


Can't help you on the dealer - maybe ask BUK.

In terms of winding - depends on hte age of the mainspring - give it a full wind and see how long it lasts - should be 36 hours or so. Stop winding when you feel resistance - remember you can overwind a manual.

You are correct about subdials

To change the date wind back and forth around midnight - 10 and 2 should do it.

Base pulsations is for taking a pulse, UPH is for timing events - I've got a guide somewhere, I'll see if I can dig it out.



Cool, that would be great!
Thanks.

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Roffensian
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 5:11 am 
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OK, so base pulsations works like this:

1) Start the chronograph
2) Count 15 heartbeats
3) Stop chronograph
4) Read the Base Pulsations scale to determine the pulse rate - hence why 60 is level with 15 seconds

Units per Hour is for timing regular events - travelling a known distance, for example. Suppose you are running on a track and you want to figure out how fast you are going. The track has markings on it so you know when you have covered (say) 100 metres. It works like this:

1) Start the chronograph as you start the 100 metres
2) Stop the chronograph when you finish the 100 metres
3) Your speed is the number on the tachymetre / UPH scale multiplied by the 100 metres that you have travelled
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