The Breitling Watch Source Forums

Hey Folks,

Hello to all! I am a newbie here and was hoping for some advice and information.

I was searching some local shops today for fine, collectible watches and came across a very early Breitling Premier Watch in 18kt Gold. It is a Model 788 which is in running condition with a very nice 18kt Gold case and back but the dial is in need of a complete restoration or replacement (if that is possible) and the crystal appears to be in need of replacement but could possibly be repaired by a great polishing. I wasn't sure whether the crystal was cracked along the edge near the bexel or just badly scratched. Also, I am sure that the watch is in need of a complete service. The price is $2,500 and was wondering if the watch is worth purchasing and paying for the service, repairs and/or restoration! What do you all think? I do not know when it was produced but all appearances point to early 1940's or possibly even the 1930's. Does anyone know what years that these early Premier Models were produced? I did find a 1945'ish Model that was sold by Christie's for over $12,000 and they stated that they were not sure that it was totally original and stated that it probably had some replacement parts. However, elsewhere the prices for these vintage Breitling Premier watches are all over the map! I am reasonably certain that the watch is genuine and untouched but would request that the Seller allow me to have it authenticated! The one thing it has that none of the other authentic mid-1940's Breitling Premier Watches have, is a stamp or stamping (I am assuming that this is an early Hallmark for Breitling) of what appears to be a Roman (or similar Emperor type) head about center or possibly slight North of center in the 18kt Gold Back Plate. This is why I believe that it is quite a bit older than any of the 1940's Premiers that I have been able to view in searches!

Any help or information would be greatly appreciated! Sorry, no pics!


Thanks...Frank

welcome to the forum !

it is quite impossible to judge the watch you are describing without pictures of the dial, case, movement, inner and outer caseback.

the watch should/must have a 6-digit number either next to the ref. no. on the outer caseback or inside, the hallmark you are describing seems in line with typical Swiss hallmarks for the period, examples below. The serial number would allow us to date the watch, though the use of the Premier branding on the dial would point to mid to late 40s.

if my memory serves me correctly, 788 should be a waterproof tricompax, so caseback and markings should be similar to the first example below ?

WatchFred,

Thanks for the information and pics! The Watch's back is exactly like the one in the 1st pic. Sorry about not having the Serial Number but the Seller would not allow me to write it down for my research! I was corrected on another Watch Forum about the Emperor (or similar type) Head stamping in the center of the Back Plate. I know now and it should have dawned on me that it is the Assayer's Mark since it is just above the Gold fineness stamp. Except for the pics of the Back Plates that you posted, I have not seen any other early Premier watches with the Assayer's Mark. So, I am thinking that at some point in time (year), they stopped stamping them with the Assayer's Mark. If anyone knows when, then this would narrow done more to when the Watch was produced seeing that I do not have the Serial Number??!! I am pretty sure that the Seller will agree to me having it authenticated but will more than likely want the entire $2,500 before allowing me to do so! I just have to get a written guarantee of all of my money back in case that it is not authentic.

Frank

P.S. I forgot to add this to my last post! Considering that the watch is in need of a replacement or total restoration of the Dial, probably needs the Crystal replaced but is running and the Case is still in really nice shape, is it worth paying the $2,500 and then paying for the repairs, restoration and service (cleaning, oiling and tune-up)?


Thanks...Frank

Frank, ALL authentic 18k gold watches from Switzerland, whether Breitling Premiers or others had those "Helvetia head" hallmarks until the mid 1990s, when it was replaced by a St. Bernhard dog´s head for all precious metals, so this would only help us to differentiate between fakes, gold plated watches or authentic gold watches, in no way does it help to narrow down production dates.

if you want to read more, wikipedia helps:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hallmark#Switzerland_2

edit in response to you additional post:
as I said, it is impossible to judge the value of a piece without having some good pics, but the problem is not so much the cost of service and restoration, the question is whether you really want a refinished dial, as it will be close to impossible to find a good original replacement dial for this model. Might be better to lean back and wait until Mr. Right pops up somewhere. though the 788 is quite a rare bird if you are specifically looking for this ref.

WatchFred,

Thanks for all of the information and help! I will probably pass on the Watch considering the price and possible restoration, repair and servicing costs that will be involved. I like the Watch but considering that I can possibly snag one in much better condition for much less on eBay, I will probably look there from time to time. You and many others will probably agree with me that some watches deserve to be restored and should be restored while others, not so much! I just believe that this Watch is one of those that should be restored! The Seller seems content to keep it locked away as is and not budge on the price in an way. As I see it, the Watch will eventually become so bad in it's condition that he will eventually remove the Movement and Crystal and sell the Case and Back just for the Gold content. Sad, sad sad!!!!!


Frank

Even without seeing it I can answer the question about whether it is worth $2,500 - heck no!!!!

That's top of the market for a pristine one.