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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2020 6:12 am 
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camel croc looks killer on any watch


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2020 12:41 pm 
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WatchFred wrote:
camel croc looks killer on any watch


Certainly, no argument there. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2020 6:22 am 
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I tried the brown drakkar strap on my blue Superocean yesterday but just couldn’t get into how it looked. That strap looks perfect on the Airborne which I’ll probably switch too soon. I’ve just really been loving the rubber mesh straps. If anyone needs something comfortable for the summer, order one of these, you’ll be amazed at how it feels on the wrist.

Jim - how do you like the mesh on the Airborne? I was going to put the pilot bracelet back on yesterday but had a hell of time getting the end links in. I broke down and ordered a double spring bar tool which hopefully should make it easier.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 11:49 am 
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I'm also for "normal size" watches (chronographs) which means 40-41 mm for me, including the Aviator 8 Chrono and the SOHC. Just one vote as always.

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Current: Breitling Chronomat 41, Steelfish Chrono BEB dials, Grand Premiers both dials, Aerospace Avantage, IWC Aquatimer 3719 3767, Fliegerchrono 3705, Sinn 103 St plexy


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 6:43 am 
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jnelson3097 wrote:
Jim - how do you like the mesh on the Airborne? I was going to put the pilot bracelet back on yesterday but had a hell of time getting the end links in. I broke down and ordered a double spring bar tool which hopefully should make it easier.


I really like the mesh on the Airborne, Justin. As a general matter, I really like Breitling's mesh bracelet, and this gives me a way to wear it frequently. My own sense is that, compared to the highly polished Pilot's Bracelet, the mesh makes the Airborne far more versatile -- at least for me, that is. I think it's a great combo!

As far as changing out the Pilot's Bracelet -- it is not an easy task. I use 2 spring bar tools at the same time to get the job done. You have to position the endlink so that it will fit between the lugs, and then simultaeously push down the spring bars so that the endlink will move into position. Working with the mesh is much easier, as you know. :wink:

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