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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:29 am 
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Hey everyone, sorry to raise this question again but I'm still not clear about which way is best to bias the pilot bracelet on my chronomat evo. At the moment it's a bit uncomfortable and the head of the watch tends to flop over on the 12 O'Clock side. I'd like the watch to sit centred (more balanced) on the top of my wrist.

The article below judging by pics seems to indicate that the strap should be shorter on the 6 O'Clock side i.e. with the clasp nearer the 6 O'Clock point of the watch or as its put "slightly biased to the bottom side of the watch"
http://www.breitlingsource.com/articles_bias.shtml

But the last line of the article says
"Centering the entire clasp in the middle of the bracelet affords the highest level of comfort."

Meanwhile Roff says that regarding the same article "As is implied in the linked articles, the clasp is designed to be off centre with the 12 o'clock side shorter than the 6 o'clock side." (taken from link below)
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16122&hilit=bias+strap

I'm confused!! :oops:

So, how do you wear yours, or, which way is the best-

1) Clasp nearer 6 (i.e. less bracelet on the 6 O'Clock side)
2) Clasp nearer 12 (i.e. less bracelet on the 12 O'Clock side)
3) Clasp centred (i.e. same amount of bracelet on each side)

Can anyone clear this up for me??? Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:55 am 
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I'm looking at a pilot bracelet now and let me try and be as detailed as possible in describing mine, which is very comfortable.

I have three removable links and six total (not including the end links) on the 12 o'clock side - i.e. looking at it side on there are six pieces of metal. I have exactly the same on the 6 o'clock side. At the risk of stating the obvious the safety catch part of the clasp is on the six o'clock side and the adjustable portion on the 12 o'clock side. The micro adjustment is on the smallest setting - i.e. closest to the middle of the clasp.

With the clasp closed and suspending the watch on my finger by the clasp the natural position of my finger is between the second and thrid micro adjustment hole and the watch then hangs 12 o'clock side high - if you look at the watch side on the lugs at 12 o'clock are fractionally below the top of the second link on the 6 o'clock side - looks like an angle of about 45 degrees.

On my wrist it's slightly loose but sits pretty central.

Hope that helps!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:03 am 
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mine just happen to be equal on both sides, but if you have an odd number, the extra should go on the 12 o'clock side.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:47 am 
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Thanks Roff for the detailed reply (and sorry to quote you in my previous post- no disrespect intended!!)

It seems like you have highlighted possibly a bigger issue - my safety clasp is on the 12 O'Clock side and the adjustable portion is on the 6 O'Clock side!!! I always thought it was funny putting it on this way :roll:

Anyway, I have three links and one adjustable at 12 O'Clock and the same on the 6 O'Clock side. I get the same result as you hanging the watch on my finger which makes sense as we both have equal links on each side and a "centred" clasp (albeit mine the wrong way around!) Also my micro adjustment is on the loosest i.e. hole 1.

I think I'll go back to the AD and get the strap swapped around and the micro adjustment tightened to hole 2.

Out of curiousity, have you ever tried the clasp located nearer the 6 O'Clock side as indicated in the bias article? Thanks

@RJRJRJ: Thanks for input- interestingly thats what my AD said regarding biasing the bracelet.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:00 am 
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tubs wrote:
Out of curiousity, have you ever tried the clasp located nearer the 6 O'Clock side as indicated in the bias article? Thanks



The article actually has both - the top photo has the bracelet reversed (based on what I consider to be 'normal'), the second photo is the more usual arrangement.

I have never tried reversing mine - they are all comfortable as they are.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:17 am 
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Sorry Roff- what I meant was have you ever tried moving a link from the 6 O'Clock side to the 12 O'Clock side in order to obtain the biased bracelet like in the article? i.e. right now you have 6 links at 6 O'Clock and 6 links at 12 O'Clock- have you tried 5 links at 6 O'Clock and 7 at 12 O'Clock?

I'm curious to get feedback from someone who has tried both configurations- equal links both sides versus links biased to the 12 O'Clock side.
Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:24 am 
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tubs wrote:
Sorry Roff- what I meant was have you ever tried moving a link from the 6 O'Clock side to the 12 O'Clock side in order to obtain the biased bracelet like in the article? i.e. right now you have 6 links at 6 O'Clock and 6 links at 12 O'Clock- have you tried 5 links at 6 O'Clock and 7 at 12 O'Clock?

I'm curious to get feedback from someone who has tried both configurations- equal links both sides versus links biased to the 12 O'Clock side.
Cheers



Sorry, misunderstood.

No I haven't.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:27 am 
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No prob- thanks for your feedback. I'm going to get the strap switched around and tightened via micro adjustment- hopefully that will make things a bit more comfortable!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:43 am 
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From an article I wrote for another forum...


Swapping straps and bracelets is a great way to increase enjoyment of your Breitling watch. The following information will hopefully encourage the reader to try the procedure for him/herself... :-!

These are original Breitling strap and bracelet springbars. Sorry for the lack of detail but if you look close you can see a conical point on the bracelet springbar. This is to help guide it into the inner interhorn holes while CAREFULLY attaching the bracelet. Notice it also has a chamfered shoulder on the outside diameter of the barrel. This is to help position the springbar tool (Please do NOT use a small screwdriver as a springbar tool unless you like scratches and gouges on the case and interhorns.) onto the springbar shaft for insertion into the interhorn hole. (Note: the Bergeon 6111 has removable tips for both types of springbars and is the perfect tool IMO. Link to a source is here: http://lonestarwatches.com/accessories.htm? ) The strap springbar doesn't need this chamfered shoulder because the springbar tool bit is more of a notched "shovel" as opposed to a sharp "fork" for the bracelet springbar tool bit. You can use the bracelet springbar for strap attachment but it is unwise to use strap springbars for bracelet installation because of the likelihood of slippage and scratching. Please don't trust a jeweler or anyone who does'nt know the difference between springbars. EDIT: Recent information shows the part number to be 520.XX for the strap springbar and part number 520.XX.1 for the bracelet springbar. The ""XX" is the interhorn width (22=22mm such as on the standard Navitimer). I hope this helps clear up some confusion for those of you who would like to swap between straps and bracelets. Two or more watches for the price of one! :-) To illustrate the difference...


Image

Image



Every Breitling wtih its original bracelet has the springbars as shown on the right in those two pics. Every strap I have (7 at this time and 7 bracelets as well) has the springbars illustrated on the left. In addition to all of the 22mm springbars I have I also have packages of 15mm, 16mm, and 18mm springbars for my family's Breitlings. All of them are exactly the same for bracelet and exactly the same for strap. Their watches all were originally equipped with "Pilot" bracelets and all configurations concurr when straps were ordered and/or added. I have a Breitling Authorized Service center here which will corroborate this information because that is where I received and validated it. That is also where I was shown how to properly adjust a Breitling bracelet by "biasing" the links to the North side of the watch which ergonomically balances the deployant clasp correctly. Here are examples of correctly balanced Navitimer and Fighter bracelets...

Image

Image

Hope this helps! :-)
Cheers,
Ron

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:18 pm 
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Yes, it should be centered so when closed the watch case is parallel to the ground when held from the center of the clasp. Typically. Sometimes I will move a link from one side to the other looking for the most comfortable fit and so it holds the watch case near center on the wrist. There are individual variations based on wrist size/shape that come into play. I have had occasion to eliminate the tendency of the case to slide to the medial aspect of the wrist by playing with different setups. But you likely will always have that happen to some degree, just because how are wrist is usually angled that way.

Of course there is always the Speidel Twist-o-flex band. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:10 pm 
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Cheers everyone for your help!!

I think O2AFAC67's pics just helped me realise what is causing my confusion- I was thinking of just the adjustable part of the clasp instead of the actual curved clasp which hugs your skin when I was reading the description in the article etc....I completely understand now- just need to get it sorted on my watch asap...thanks everyone!!

:lingsrock:


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