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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:15 am 
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Hi all

I have searched around but am a noob to high-end watches and Breitlings

I am looking for some advice as to models I should consider for a 1st watch purchase

Hard parameters: less than $6k, no precious metals (GLD)
Soft parameters: a smaller face, thinner watch

What I think I know
1) I should buy from a AD
2) I should buy new

What I was thinking and why:
1) Chrono Colt 2 - small black face, good looking but cheaper
2) Emergency / E Mission - how cool is it to have a beacon built into a watch
3) Bentley Flying B - crazy discounts off list price brings this down to 5-6k, distinctive look

There seem to be a slew of $4-6k Breitling watches with distinctions I'm missing or are not relevant to me. I guess I am looking for feedback on the watches I've mentioned or recommendations for other models which are 'good bang for buck'

The watch would simply be a treat for me (I don't fly / sail / dive)

Any advice is much appreciated!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:33 am 
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I wouldnt discount a Blackbird or a Chronomat either. The thing about a first watch that is most important (IMO) is to go to an AD and get the different watches on your wrist. Believe me, they look a lot different in the metal and on the wrist. Either one of the above watches would fit under the $6k limit.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:40 am 
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A few practical things.....

Do you need (or would you prefer a chronograph (stop watch). Without it the price is a little cheaper and maintenance costs are reduced. However, it's the loss of a function and a potentially less appealing visual presence.

I'm guessing that mechanical vs. quartz is irrelevant to you based on your list - though bear in mind that the Emergency is being discontinued because Dassault are ceasing to support the transmitter.

Is it specifically the dial that you want smaller, or the whole watch - i.e. is a navitimer style watch out of the running because the dial effectively goes to the edge.

What are you going to use the watch for - are you looking for a rugged watch that you can dive with, do any 'normal' activity and not worry, are you looking for a watch to look good with a suit at work, or are you looking for something that can handle all situations.

That will all help narrow down the search.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:46 am 
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Roffensian wrote:
A few practical things.....

Do you need (or would you prefer a chronograph (stop watch). Without it the price is a little cheaper and maintenance costs are reduced. However, it's the loss of a function and a potentially less appealing visual presence.

I'm guessing that mechanical vs. quartz is irrelevant to you based on your list - though bear in mind that the Emergency is being discontinued because Dassault are ceasing to support the transmitter.

Is it specifically the dial that you want smaller, or the whole watch - i.e. is a navitimer style watch out of the running because the dial effectively goes to the edge.

What are you going to use the watch for - are you looking for a rugged watch that you can dive with, do any 'normal' activity and not worry, are you looking for a watch to look good with a suit at work, or are you looking for something that can handle all situations.

That will all help narrow down the search.


Thanks for the quick feedback.
1) I would like a Chronograph but it is not a must-have
2) I find the Navitimer style to be a bit busy - I like the simpler dials (right word?)
3) All situations but I need a relatively rugged watch (b/c I am hard on things). Honestly, I will be wearing it with a suit / work clothes 90% of the time (it needs to be 'work acceptable' - no neon yellow faces)
4) I would like a mechanical but I wouldn't pay a premium for it

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:01 am 
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OK that helps.

Remember also that you aren't going to be paying list prices, in the US you can get a discount of 25% relatively easily, potentially a little more.

The Windrider, Galactic and Aeromarine ranges are going to be your best bets. Among the chronographs, and besides the ones that you selected, you have BroncoSport's recommendations of the Chronomat and Blackbird, the B01 is likely excluded for price, and also the Chrono Galactic (formerly Chrono Cockpit) and the new SuperOcean II (though that might not work as well with a suit). Finally there is the Chrono SuperOcean.

Those are all mechanical and within your budget. Beyond those you may be getting a little too large for you as you are getting into the 45mm range.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:53 am 
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Sounds like a Chronomat or Blackbird to me too.

The Emergency Mission is a large watch and super thick, so I think you can get that one off your list.

Of course, the old advice is always the best: Go check them out at an AD and your choice will be a lot easier than you think. Something is gonna stand out and be perfect for you.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:15 pm 
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If size becomes an issue (weight and thickness), the chrono Colt II is a good fit IMO, plus chrono function, good water resistence, accuracy with SQ, good all-around piece.

Good luck with your selection!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:19 pm 
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Can't really go wrong with the Chronomat. It's a good size at 43.7mm, has the chrono, is very classy looking for a suit but also looks good with more casual clothes. Has a good water resistance at 300m and there are numerous dial and strap/bracelet options so you get get the perfect look.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 2:49 pm 
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I would say regardless of the ultimate decision....you are A.) at the right place to learn more, and B.) you are asking the right questions regarding size, function, and style.

I agree that going and trying on watches is the best option, but having an idea before going in is even more important. All those shiny watches can get overwhelming when you don't know what you are looking for.

I would be amiss if I didn't say that I personally am a pre-owned guy. I don't doubt that the AD route is better for most situations, but I am a sucker for a deal. By letting someone else take the depreciation hit I was able to get 2 first watches, (oxymoron I know) while staying on the lower end of your budget.

Its not for everyone, but I had to throw it out there.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:51 pm 
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I am guessing pre-owns go for 70-60% of MSRP...?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 3:59 pm 
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werewolf wrote:
I am guessing pre-owns go for 70-60% of MSRP...?


Less.

In North America the new ones go for 70 - 75%, so resale values are lower. Reckon on 50% as a (very) rough rule.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:09 pm 
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I agree with Roff usually about 50% seems to be a rough number to go by. That being said I also agree that a Chronomat seems to fit for what you are looking for. I will also throw into the mix a SOHC.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:12 pm 
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GZGym1 wrote:
I agree with Roff usually about 50% seems to be a rough number to go by. That being said I also agree that a Chronomat seems to fit for what you are looking for. I will also throw into the mix a SOHC.


Hardly qualifies as "smaller" - it's 46mm.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:13 pm 
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I dont think it seems to wear the large though IMHO. I think something like the Bentley GT wears bigger at that size. Just my 2 cents.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 5:13 pm 
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you should consider a chrono superocean or the new SO

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