The Breitling Watch Source Forums

Hello folks.... my first post to the forum, ...

The more recent chronomat B13048 is generally listed as having gold (18K) markers to the bezel quarters,etc.

I have been offered what appears to be an early model from the 70's but I am suspicious because the quarter markers (and also the screw heads but I could understand those) where they have worn through wear/use are showing that they are not one solid piece of metal but are heavily plated. The base metal is showing under magnification with a clear line between the two metal surfaces caused through wear.

Does anyone know if the early versions of this watch used gold plated markers and screws?

Breitling themselves were no help... all they would say was send us the watch and we'll investigate (...duooohhh thanks .. that's a great help .. )

The case back also has a much shallower relief to the centre without the modern 'chunky' high relief.

The movement is correct, and the dial (when compared with another much newer 1996 one) is identical even under magnification.... but this use of 'gold' plating is concerning me.

Anyone own an early B13048 who can comment authoritatively?

Thanks

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Ian - UK

and here is some information for you...

BREITLING "Rolled Gold"

Prior to 1994 when the "D" model was introduced, Breitling used the "B" in the model number to indicate "bi-color" or "two-tone". An all stainless steel "Old Navitimer" was a model A13019 while the "two-tone" was model B13019. The subdials are solid "2n" 18k yellow gold but the bezel was actually 316L stainless steel with at least 20 micron "rolled" 18K gold surface. When the D13019 Old Navitimer was introduced, the bezel became solid 18K gold. On modern Breitling watches in other series lines (Windrider, Professional, Aeromarine}, the "B" prefix in the model number indicates two tone "accents" (rider tabs, pushers, crown) while the "D" prefix indicates solid 18K gold bezel, typically with stainless steel rider tabs. Although the bezels (and rider tabs when applicable) on Breitlings today are solid 18 K gold, the crowns, pushers and gold "link segments" of the two tone bracelets remain 20 micron rolled gold as always. "Rolled" gold is not the same as less expensive and less durable "plated" (electroplated) gold. "Rolled" gold is a laminate of solid 18K gold sheet fused to a base layer (usually brass) which is typically rolled out after lamination, hence the term "rolled". The gold layer is much thicker than the microscopically thin deposit laid down by electroplating, and much more resistant to wear, being alloy gold rather than soft 24K (recent improvements in electroplating have enabled much harder deposits, but they remain extremely thin). Often, the "rolled" gold layer is so thick it can be engraved without exposing the base layer. In fact, the 18K link segments on Breitling bracelets are MUCH thicker (as much as 200 microns) and are built from 316L stainless steel rods with the impregnated (rolled) gold already applied. The base 316L in the bracelet links provides much better torsion and tractability characteristics which in turn make the bracelets last much longer (generations) without stretching. Compare a Breitling gold or two tone bracelet to a flimsy roll-x bracelet and you'll understand. Needless to say, there is a big difference in appearance between the superficial flash of an electroplated surface and the rich depth of gold filled metal. That said, zealous overpolishing of a rolled gold surface can indeed expose the base metal underneath, and extremely frequent use of chrono pushers and crown can do the same thing. When you send a two tone watch to Breitlng for service and polishing, it is prudent to speak to your service representative and express a concern for the piece in terms of an overpolishing possibility. Sound like experience talking? Yes, it is, and Breitling can "fix" the problem by replacing the parts with new. I recently had my Breitling authorized service center in Houston replace both chrono pushers on my two tone Crosswind for this very problem. Breitling USA overpolished my B13019 Old Navitimer and ended up putting a brand new bezel and caseback on the watch for me a few years ago. Anyway, I hope all this makes sense to you and is helpful.
Cheers,

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"The Sailor Who Fell From Grace With The Sea"...

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Thank you ... yes, very informative and a lot of use.

Rolled Gold is actually what they appeared to be...

When I wrote plated it was deliberate, as I have had discussions 'across the pond' before where some folks in the States seem to have a different name for Rolled Gold. (Can't remember what it was now .. but it confused the hell out of me at the time) so I thought it easier just to say 'plated' and 'plating'.

My mind is now at rest. I presumed (wrongly) that all Breitling two-tones were solid gold, .... and this had me worrying. You have cleared up my mystery and supplied a lot of very useful additional information

Thanks again...

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Ian - UK