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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:15 am 
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I've done a lot of lurking here to try to find answers for my new watch, and although I found a lot of information, I still have a couple questions still. Keep ind mind that my questions are for the Chronomat.

Diamond Bezel - How much does this typically cost (not oem). I know that quality, clarity of the diamonds matter mostly, but typically what did you guys end up paying? I found no reference through the whole site on how much people typically pay. Most local jewelers are charging typically $1000 or so.

Adjusting Time - I set the time/date and found that my watch is a little off time (compared to the breitling website) by about 5 seconds through a 24 hour period. What can cause this?

Bracelet - I'm assuming the size of a bracelet that will fit will be 22mm?

Thank again and wonderful site.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:27 pm 
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I'll let some of the heavyweights answer the diamond bezel question, but as far as keeping time, it's within COSC specs. The range is -6/+4 sec a day. This is normal for automatic watches. They are very complex timepeices compared to quartz watches. Look at it this way. You now have an excuse to fondle that Chronomat regularly! :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:07 pm 
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For the diamond bezel I would suggest asking around and find a jeweler you are comfortable with. It also depends on your taste, do you want a breitling bezel or do you want a jeweler made bezel. You will get a better deal on a jeweler made bezel because there is obviously a huge markup on diamonds and you can be specific on the look of your bezel. Do you want 1 row of larger diamonds, do you want 2 rows of smaller diamonds? Do you want diamonds on the side of the bezel? This can all change the price drastically. I went pricing for bezels for my evolution and I heard anywhere from $1300-2000 for the breitling bezel to $900 - $4100 for a custom bezel. The $4100 was for an amazing piece that was overkill for my taste, great looking diamonds 2 rows on the top and 2 rows on the side of the bezel. Your best bet is to just figure out exactly what look you want first then go from there.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Breitlings are COSC certified and are rated to be accurate between -4 to +6 sec per day.

Deviations can occur due to temperature, how its worn on the wrist and positioning.

Also if you don't wear your watch at night and you leave it on your night table, try to sync the time and leave it in a position ie. dial up and notice the change when you wake up. It make loose or gain time.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:37 am 
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So I checked the time again this morning, and the time was off at an astounding 2 minutes and 15 or so seconds.

As I looked on the breitling website, I noticed that the chronomat that they have up to give the time has a different date font than the one on my watch. Does everyone's chronomat match the same date font as the one on breitlings website?

As for losing time, I still don't know what is happening. Can someone give clear detail on how to wind the watch properly? (As i think this is the reason time is off).


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:05 am 
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2 minutes is way off the COSC spec espeically during an overnight duration.

Was it bought brand new from an AD? If so, have it checked and regulated.

Either your watch was magnetized or it was jarred during transport. Was it off time keeping since the beginning?

I can't comment on the font question as I don't have a Chronomat. I'll let the Chronomat owners answer you on that.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:23 pm 
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The Chronomat on Breitling's website is probably a Chronomat Evolution, since they don't make the Chronomat anymore. Is your watch a Chronomat Evo or a regular old school Chronomat?

If the date font is wrong, and the watch is the same one, you probably have a fake. Either that or something changed the date wheel.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:31 pm 
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My watch is the same as the one on the website, evolution. I've checked many pictures of other evolutions from other sites and found that my font matches the ones in all the other pictures except the one on the breitling website. The number "9" that is up there now just looks so differenent from the one I have on my watch.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:46 pm 
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Ah.. you mean the big one on the front page.. yeah that 9 is wrong on that one. I thought you meant the photos of the ones when you look at the specifics.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:46 pm 
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Fedor, pls post a photo of the date font if you don't mind. Use the macro feature of your camera.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:11 pm 
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breitlingsource wrote:
Ah.. you mean the big one on the front page.. yeah that 9 is wrong on that one. I thought you meant the photos of the ones when you look at the specifics.


I figured something was wrong about that font. Glad to get some confirmation though.

Roadcarver, which date font would you like to see? We have figured it out that the date font on the website is wrong.

Can you explain to me how to wind the watch properly?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:18 pm 
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I was asking about the date font on yours, but since that has been clarified, no worries then :p

As for winding the watch, it takes about 40 turns to get the power reserve to full capacity.

Unscrew the crown counter-clock wise, and it will pop out on its own. Turn the crown clockwise 40 turns, this will allow you to wind the watch.

Once 40 turns have been done, push the crown in while turning clock-wise, this will screw the crown back down again to seal the internals from the elements.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:46 pm 
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roadcarver wrote:
I was asking about the date font on yours, but since that has been clarified, no worries then :p

As for winding the watch, it takes about 40 turns to get the power reserve to full capacity.

Unscrew the crown counter-clock wise, and it will pop out on its own. Turn the crown clockwise 40 turns, this will allow you to wind the watch.

Once 40 turns have been done, push the crown in while turning clock-wise, this will screw the crown back down again to seal the internals from the elements.



Much thanks..

I came across a diamond bezel on ebay and found this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-EVOLUTION-BREIT ... dZViewItem
As someone who does not know much about diamonds, does this seem like something legit? This is the style that I was looking for and cannot find any online dealers of such bezels. I am very weary of buying jewelery, especially diamonds, over the net and was wondering what you guys think about this item. Compared to breitling oem diamond bezels, how does this stack up? I am unsure on what type of diamonds/setting breitling offers..


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:27 pm 
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They seem to have a lot of custom made bezels out on the bay, and a lot of good feedback too. However, regarding diamonds and their classification I'm a complete newbie. But, 700+ other deals with good feedback is at least some comfort.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:38 am 
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I know a little bit about diamonds (I just don't wear them myself as I'm not a Premiership footballer!! :wink: ) -

Blemishes in a diamond are known as Inclusions, and so clarity is measured as follows -

Flawless - FL
Internally Flawless - IF
Very Very Slightly Included - VVS (grades 1 and 2)
Very Slightly Included - VS (grade 1 and 2)
Slightly Included - SI (grades 1 and 2)
Included - I (grades 1, 2 and 3)

The less inclusions you have the better.

Basically, FL means no blemishes at all under x10 magnification. IF means only small blemishes on the diamond surface when viewed under x10 magnification, and so on. Generally speaking VS2 is the first level where blemishes may be visible to the naked eye if you are a trained individual.

Diamond colour typically ranges from D to Z with D being totally colourless and z being light yellow.

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