This post is more about Seiko in general, I am in London for a very quick business trip, a few meetings and heading back home. I did have time for some shopping ( it is London after all!) and did the rounds on all the watch and gentleman’s goods shops. There really is no better place for a man to shop than London, weather it’s cigars, textiles, wristwatches, or anything else a man could need or want, it seems it really is a mans world in London!
I walked by the Seiko boutique by chance, and remembered I was looking for a proper gym watch. I hate the “plastic fantastic” G shock I bought for that purpose, and have been enjoying the JLC Extreme Lab whole on the treadmill, but since my New Years resolution includes dropping the last 20% of excess weight I really did need to get something to knock around, so in I went.
The London Seiko boutique was actually quite impressive! Very well designed and extremely high end finishing. The staff where very well trained, courteous without being pushy, informative without boring you with too much information.
I have always highely regraded Seiko as a company. They very well may be the greatest watch company in the world. Established in 1881, having contributed many indications, and being the only company that has mastered every form of watchmaking from humble quartz to haute horology and inventing a few along the way ( spring drive, kinetic, etc). They can also be credited with actually being used, for practical reasons, by billions of professionals as well as hobbyists. The list goes on and on.
I went in looking for a cheapie, but figured I might as well check out their higher end range. The Spring Drive truly is astonishing, and an exceptional evolution of mechanical watchmaking. I seriously considered the Snowflake, Grand Seikos best selling model, but just could not get used to the dull bracelet finishing or the really light weight. To each their own.
I was very impressed by another model aesthetically though, unfortunately not a Spring Drive, the new GMT with mosaic dial. So much so I couldn’t help but to pick it up.
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In case anyone is considering the watch, here is a brief review.
The packaging of the Gran Seiko watches is what I would consider average. They can, and should, do better. I expect they will upgrade the packaging as they seem to be focusing on the high end market, this is evident by their shift to GS as their flagship brand in the US, replacing Seiko.
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It’s not bad by market averages mind you, I would say it is better than what Rolex are currently offering overall. And the certificate of guarantee certifying the movement shows great pride in the watch, a sentiment that is well received and appreciated.
The material though can use some serious work, the insignia on the fake leather was already peeling:
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As this was a limited edition, Ali, the store manager, was kind enough to allow me to choose which number I would get. Splendid service yet again!
Down to the watch itself, the dial is the main attraction here. The mosaic motif ( which is actually GS and 9S in sequence) is of course stamped, as individual turning can’t be expected at anything close to this price point, is nonetheless wonderfully done. The dial is extremely attractive yet understated, and changes appearance from a subtly textured white dial to a what looks like mosaic art. The blue accent spear and disappear based on lighting conditions. Seiko in general does very well with their dials at every price point I must say.
Here are a few pictures under different lighting conditions:
Another strong point of the watch was the case shape, unique and very attractive. The knurled ring on the bottom highlighting the movement. Another nod to how Seiko is proud of their work.
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I couldn’t help but compare the watch to the Patek World Chrono. Although not a fair comparison, I do think the GS was inspired by the Patek, both are traveler and watches with mosaic designs, and seem to be aimed at smart casual settings. The below picture shows the unique and attractive GS case design and highlights another Seiko strong point; fine case polishing. The GS holds its own next to the Patek.
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One aspect that was particularly nice was the deployant buckle. Seiko did a very good job making the simple system comfortable yet secure, with the flexible clasp serving both to secure the band in place as well as being brushed and elevated as to protect the polished portion. I do like it when a brand puts some thought into the minor details. The polished Patek or Breguet deployants, while beautiful, are a magnet for scratches and broken hearts.
The combination of the well designed deployant, case design, supple leather, and size make for a supremely comfortable watch to wear. Ideal for extended use in the office or travel. The design also lends itself to both dress and casual situations. I will also say, that the dial and terrific polishing make it very attractive over all, and when you consider that it houses a formidable mechanical movement for under 5K, this watch warrants serious consideration, and I would wholeheartedly recommend it.
I am also looking at their divers, I had picked up one of the cheaper models, at under 400 pounds, as my gym watch. but just can’t stomach the cheap finishing, i sweat I have seen better polishing on tuna cans. The overall package is a bargain though. Luckily the store manager agreed to a return and exchange for something a bit more desirable. I saw the new limited green Marinemaster. Pictures here:
https://www.fratellowatches.com/seiko-s ... inemaster/It’s actually a fantastic looking piece, and can serve as all around higher end beater.
While at the store I also saw the Credor, and seriously considered it. I was really taken back by how attractive it is :
The porcelain dial is truly breathtaking, and the painted blue indices are very, very beautiful! But what stole the show was the breathtaking movement, a manual wind version of Spring Drive finished to within an inch of its life. The watch not only represented the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking, but represented many of Japan’s cultural aspects, zen like simplicity taking center stage. A piece of art in many ways, I considered it for a day, but decided it was too early in my stage of collecting to warrant 50k on a Credor, there are many aspects of fine watchmaking that should be covered before approaching anything so exotic, especially considering the watch’s Achilles heel; the dial is not in house!
One of Seiko’s great accomplishments is that they typically produce everything in house, I do mean everything! From the most difficult to produce component to the their own luminiferous paint. Outsourcing the dial to a contractor, even though that contractor might well be the worlds finest chinaware producer, takes the watch down a bit in my eye. So I am picking this up instead:
I will still keep a keen eye on Credor, I hope they expand the range and produce more approachable watches, and can bring the dial making in house or reduce the pricing accordingly.
As a final note, do check out GS, and particularly the London boutique if your in town. Happy collecting!