The Breitling Watch Source Forums

I've read/heard elsewhere that the crown and push-pieces on the two tone Breitling models are not actually solid gold, but rolled gold (basically a thin layer laminated to a steel base) which I actually found as a bit of a shock.

I understand that the bezel on TT models ARE solid gold, but I always assumed that all external gold parts on modern models were solid gold. We've all seen old Aerospace models where the gold plate has worn off on the rider tabs (and how flamin' awful it looks!), but I assumed that had changed in recent years.

I also heard that the gold links on TT bracelets are also only rolled gold. Again, bit of a shock....

Can anyone give a definitive answer on what is solid and what is rolled gold on current Breitling models please???

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Couple of different points there.....

First off, I believe (though not 100%) that crown and pushers are solid gold.

The bracelet is definitely rolled gold, which gets into the second point - the difference between rolled and plated.......

Gold plating is a microsopically thin application of gold at a molecular level - i.e. each molecule of gold is applied separately and therefore very prone to wear. Rolled gold on the other hand is a relatively thck (20 micron on Breitling I think) sheet of gold that is 'laminated' to the base metal. To give some idea of depth, engraving the gold shouldn't show the base metal if done properly.

Because the gold is both thicker and is a solid layer of gold rather than a molecular application, the likelihood of the gold wearing off as it would in a plated application is significantly reduced - I'm sure it could happen in theory, but hate to think what it would take.

Crikey I'm surprised that the bracelet is only rolled gold and not solid!! The cost of TT bracelets is pretty steep in comparison to steel.... which I naturally put down to the "solid" gold elements. Guess it's lucky I don't like TT bracelets then really!!

However I'd really like to know for certain about the crown and push-pieces as I do like the TT Chronomat on black croco, but I just hate the idea of "non-solid" gold parts.

PS - Yeah sorry Roff, I was only using the plated Aerospace riders as an example of how bad wear can look on non-solid gold parts, as I believe on older models those used to be only plated as opposed to rolled gold.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Not sure I'm with you on that one Driver. Gold is currently close to $1,000 per troy ounce, which is about 31.1 grams. Now consider that a two tone pilot has around 30 'gold' pieces, and a two tone navitimer around 40 and I'm not that surprised by the price premium.

In addition, I don't think I would want a solid gold bracelet due to problems of strength and durability.

What about the bracelets on the full gold models? Surely they're solid aren't they? After-all the cases are solid...... I think.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

Pretty sure they are solid cases - don't know about the bracelets. I would think resilience would be less of an issue there though as they are unlikely to be daily wearers.

OK, thanks for the info Roff. Good man.

If anyone else has a definitive answer on whether the crown and push-pieces on TT models are solid gold or not, please post away!

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Driver8

Site Moderator

On steel & gold product all the bezels, pushpieces...etc. are solid

The crown has a steel core for durability. The bracelet links are steel core with 18kt. cap. When you size a SS/!18kt.. bracelet you will better see.

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BC

On the solid gold bracelets, the parts are actually U shaped to reduce weight, makes the backside of it look a little wierd but saves on cost as well

Rolex TT bracelets have solid gold links, however they are prone to "stretching", especially the jubilee style

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John

Current:- Navi World, Coral SO, Panerai 219, Sea Dweller, Suunto Core etc

CORAL CLUB FOUNDING FATHER

Strange, but I recently ordered a two tone Starliner (for the wife) from my AD and I ask about the gold content and she told me that the bracelet links, rider tabs, and hour markers (on the model I ordered) were SOLID gold. The crown she thought was plated for duribility. She went on to say that ALL Breitling bracelet (gold sections), bezels, tabs ect are solid gold and have been for some time.

I would be interested to have this cleared up from Breitling themselves.

Scott

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Breitling Steelfish(black)
Breitling Steelfish(silver)
Panerai PAM 312
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom
Steinhart BreitlingSource LE #5/15

Rider tabs and hour markers are definitely solid.

Bracelet links are definitely not solid - they are rolled gold / gold filled (different terms, same thing).

Hmmmm, this is interesting.....

I must be honest but a while ago when I first looked at a TT Chronomat I was told exactly the same thing by the AD - that all gold parts, including the bracelet, crown, hour markers, etc, etc, were all solid gold. It wasn't my usual AD (who are generally far more knowledgeable), but I assumed that he'd know, and I also assumed that given the cost that everything would be solid.

I'm getting the feeling that this is going to be one for Breitling themselves. I might give the UK service centre a call when I have a minute.

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Driver8

Site Moderator

I've had a TT Chronomat, and the bracelet links are not solid.. there is a peice of gold wrapped aroudn the inner links.. you can see it from the side. That may not be the case anymore, but I think it is. Thomas might be able to enlighten. Rider tabs are solid gold, I always thought the pushpeices were still plated, but could be wrong.

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BreitlingSource Admin
http://www.breitlingsource.com - http://blog.breitlingsource.com

Again the full bezels, riders, pushers, are all gold and the crown and gold links have a stainless core with a solid 18k cap. This is for durability and price. Breitling watch cases and bracelets are traditionally much heavier than other brands and their prices would be much more if the components were without the steel core.

Look at the price of a solid 18K Daytona at 40mm and priced at $28,100 and solid 18k Chrono Cockpit at 39mm at $27,875 (pre May 1st).

Which watch do you think would have more gold?

Also, the two-tone 40mm Daytona, while the gold link is solid all the way through lists for $13,400 while the 43.70mm Chronomat Evo with the solid 18k bezel and two-tone Pilot bracelet lists for $8,075.

That extra gold weight will make a big difference in $$$. Sounds like some of the AD's might need better training.

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BC

But along with that logic, the all stainless Daytona is a whole lot more expensive than the all stainless Evolution... for basically (IMO) the same watch. You will (it seems) pay a premium for the Rolex name. Thats got to figure in to the price difference.

Scott

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Breitling Steelfish(black)
Breitling Steelfish(silver)
Panerai PAM 312
Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom
Steinhart BreitlingSource LE #5/15